Category Archives: Books

Searching for your Chinese family history

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Lately, I’ve been meeting friends who tell me they are trying to learn more about their family history. They want to explore their Chinese roots.


I had the same thoughts when I was in my late 50s. At that time, I had just left a long career at Sunset Magazine and now had the time to explore my family history and Hakka identity. This exploration led to the publication of The Hakka Cookbook. My research started with my Hakka family history. It grew to encompass the unique history and story of the greater Hakka migration. Here I share a few pointers I learned along the way as I looked for my family history.

Tips for searching for your Chinese family history

Identify people in old family photos. Record their names in Chinese characters as well as other English names they may have used. Find out how they are related to you.
  • Interview your family elders now. Record or video their interviews. I wish I had begun my research earlier when my family elders were still alive. It’s much easier to get the information first hand.
  • Ask your elders to identify people in old family photos and their relation to you. Have them write their names in Chinese characters as well as other English names they may have used after migration. Try to date the photos and include where the photo was taken.
  • Ask family members to share their stories about their birthplace, their migration, and their new home. What were their parent’s names? Did they have any siblings? If they migrated from China, ask for the village name. Get Chinese characters for all names. Also record any English names.
  • Can they teach you how to cook favorite family dishes? Many elders do not have written recipes, but if you can cook alongside and record the process you will learn a lot. Video their cooking lesson, so you can capture the process and approximate amounts of ingredients. In the video you can ask questions about the ingredients, the technique, how do they know when it is done, what it should taste and look like.
  • Collect documents. Official documents–birth marriage, citizenship, and death certificates, military discharge papers, school graduation certificates–all can help map a person’s life.
  • If your relatives immigrated through San Francisco check out the National Archives at San Francisco. They found the Angel Island interviews of my grandparents and documents certifying that my grandfather was a merchant.
  • Ask your family to share stories about their life and special memories. What was life like after they immigrated to a new home? How did your parents meet? How did they celebrate Chinese New Year? What was their favorite hobby or passion? Who was their best friend? Was there a key person who changed their life?
The Hakka Cookbook

If you’re Hakka and interested in learning more about your Hakka history, consider reading The Hakka Cookbook, Chinese Soul Food from around the World. It’s more than a cookbook. It includes the history and migration of the Hakka people. Read the stories from Hakka from India, Canada, Peru, Trinidad, Jamaica, Mauritius and more. You can ask your local bookstore to order from you or buy it online.

The Hakka Cookbook lives on

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The Hakka Cookbook was published in the fall of 2012. More than 10 years later, the book still lives on. A few months ago, Larry Chin from Vancouver, BC contacted me about selling The Hakka Cookbook on his website Chinatown Wonders. His online site promotes Vancouver’s Chinatown through the creations of local artists and creators. His mission is to build and strengthen cultural connections to Chinatown. On Chinatown Wonders, find videos about the history and culture of Vancouver’s Chinatown. Also shop for books, T-shirts and hoodies, cards, cups, and art prints–all created by Asians.


A few months ago, we met Larry and his family when they were visiting San Francisco. Over lunch at the Hakka Restaurant, Larry told me as a Hakka from Malaysia, he was so excited to discover the The Hakka Cookbook. He loved how the book captured the Hakka history and food culture and wanted to share it with the world.


Last week he called to share a story about an memorable encounter he had with a customer. At a recent pop-up event, he displayed a copy of The Hakka Cookbook. A young woman saw The Hakka Cookbook and instantly zeroed in and claimed the book as hers. She told him she was a Hakka from Trinidad. Larry opened the book and showed her the map and how the Hakka migrated throughout the world. They looked up Trinidad, her home country. To their surprise, they found her uncle, Winston H. Chang Jr., on page 161. I had interviewed the “self-proclaimed Hakkaologist” more than a decade ago in Toronto. He graciously shared his story and several recipes with me.

I’m so pleased that she found The Hakka Cookbook. I wrote the book especially for people like her–Hakka who wanted to know more about their history and culinary heritage.

Chinese restaurants around the world

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Have you noticed that everywhere you go around the world, you will find a Chinese restaurant? Cheuk Kwan, a Canadian film-maker and now author, explores this global phenomenon in his new book, Have you Eaten Yet? The book follows Kwan’s exploration of family-run Chinese restaurants from the Arctic to South Africa, from Trinidad to India. The restaurants symbolize the Chinese migration. Kwan tells the stories of these immigrants and how they adapted to their new homes while maintaining their Chinese culture.


Last weekend, Kwan was in the Bay Area to promote his new book. The best way to discuss a book about Chinese restaurants is over a good Chinese meal. So we shared lunch at the Hakka Restaurant in San Francisco. The book records his journey he took over two decades ago when he produced the documentary series Chinese Restaurants. He goes behind the scenes and reveals the feelings, emotions, and soul of these Chinese migrants.

I first met Kwan, shortly after his film series was released in 2004. My daughter had seen one of his episodes at a film festival and suggested I see his series for my book research. I ordered his 15 episode DVD set. Many of his restaurateurs were Hakka, like my father, immigrants looking for a way to make a living.

I contacted Kwan and asked him about his Hakka chefs. He suggested we meet because he would be in the Bay Area for a film festival next week. Our projects shared a similar focus on the global Chinese diaspora.


I was still in the early days of research for my Hakka cookbook. Kwan told me I needed to go to Toronto. He said he could set me up with a Hakka friend who could gather many contacts for me. Within a few weeks, I was in Scarborough, a suburb of Toronto, sharing a meal with a dozen new Hakka friends. They came from all over the world. I interviewed them, asking about their stories and their food. Many of their stories and recipes found their way into The Hakka Cookbook. I’m so grateful to have met Cheuk Kwan.


I asked him about his documentary series, Chinese Restaurants. He said he has posted the episodes on YouTube so everyone can see it. Read “Have you eaten yet?” then view his series to see their faces. It’s an insightful view of the Chinese diaspora. Click this link to see.

The next day at a book signing event at the Oakland Asian Cultural Center, Kwan shared some of his experiences writing the book. Martin Yan also interviewed him about the Chinese diaspora. Read the book and enjoy the historical and revealing journey of Chinese migrants who dared to open a restaurant across the world.

Gifts for the aspiring Chinese chef

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A cooking kit for the aspiring Chinese chef: The Hakka Cookbook packed in a Chinese steamer basket with ingredients such as Tianjin preserved vegetables, bean sauce, and Chinese rice wine (shaoxing).

Looking for the perfect gift for your aspiring Chinese chef?  If you have someone on your list who wants to learn to cook Chinese food, here are some suggestions for the novice to the more experienced cook. Of course, I would give The Hakka Cookbook with over 140 recipes for Chinese comfort food to special occasion festival dishes. It also includes directions on how to use tools and equipment and a glossary of Chinese pantry ingredients. You can order The Hakka Cookbook from your local bookstore or buy online from many sources, depending on the country you are shopping from.

For a cooking kit, package the book with cooking tools or ingredients. Here are some suggestions.

1. Wok. This is the ultimate all-purpose pan in the Chinese kitchen. Use the wok to stir-fry, deep-fry, braise, boil, and steam. For Western kitchens I would choose a 14-inch flat-bottom wok made from rolled steel or enamel-clad cast iron. Check with the Wok Shop. They will find the right wok for you and your stove. These hard working pans are bargain-priced compared to most Western high quality pans.  Also buy a wok spatula to make stir-frying easier and a wok lid. This versatile bowl-shaped pan can also be used for Western dishes. I use mine to make spaghetti sauce and popcorn.

2. Chinese cleaver. This is the equivalent of the French chef’s knife. It’s an all-purpose knife with the advantage of a wide blade that’s handy for crushing garlic and scooping up cut vegetables.

I’ve used this metal multi-layer Chinese steamer for over 20 years. I can cook two dishes at the same time. The base is also handy for cooking vegetables and noodles.

3. Chinese  metal steamer or bamboo steamer. These steamers can accommodate wide dishes often used to hold a whole fish, meats, and beaten eggs. Choose one about 11 to 12 inches wide. Basket steamers can be stacked and fit inside a wok. If you steam often, consider a metal multi-layer steamer you can cook several dishes at a time. Steaming is an easy and healthful way to cook. The Wok Shop as well as many Asian supermarkets sell these steamers. Also look for them online.

4. Staples of the Chinese pantry. Present an assortment of key seasonings, especially those that are not readily available in the supermarket, such as dark soy sauce, Chinese rice wine (shaoxing), fermented black beans or black bean and garlic sauce, ground bean sauce, Tianjin preserved vegetables, dried black fungus, and dried tangerine peel. Look at The Hakka Pantry starting on page 247 in The Hakka Cookbook for suggestions, descriptions, Chinese names, and shopping guidance. Or add one of our sauces, JADE Sichuan Peanut Sauce, that is ready to eat without cooking for a table sauce, salad dressing, or stir-fry sauce.

Chinese clay pot

5. Chinese clay pot.  For the cook who has the basic equipment, consider giving a clay pot (also known as sand pot). Braise stews, simmer soups, and cook rice in these rustic pots that enhance the natural flavors of the ingredients. They also serve as handsome serving dishes. Buy these pots at an Asian cookware store such as the Wok Shop or online.

The Hakka Cookbook tenth anniversary

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“Best Chinese Cuisine Cookbook of the World”
With Alan Lau, artist and my brother
Photo by Dabin Lo
With Martin Yan and his wife, Susan
Cooking with Mark Bittman, NY Times writer.

Happy Birthday to The Hakka Cookbook! The month marks the 10th anniversary of The Hakka Cookbook. I’m so happy that the book is still in print. It has never been a best seller, but has gained fans among the Hakka population and continues to sell consistently. It has been reprinted at least four times.

Timeline


On this significant anniversary, let’s look back on the journey of the creation and life of The Hakka Cookbook.
  • 2004: I began developing the concept and plan for this book. Interviewed Hakka in Malaysia, Singapore, and Hawaii.
  • 2005: Went on a Hakka scouting trip to China, Taiwan, and Hong Kong.
  • 2006: Worked on the book proposal. Interviewed Hakka in Peru and Toronto, Canada. In March, I found a cookbook agent.
  • 2007: Worked on the book, researched, and tested recipes. After 1 ½ years, ended my contract with the agent. Decided to sell the manuscript myself.
  • 2008: Went to my first Toronto Hakka Conference. Found a publisher!
  • 2009: Publisher canceled contract due to economic downturn. Continued working on the book and looked for a new publisher.
  • 2010: University of California Press accepted my proposal!
  • 2011: Edited the book. Forwarded my brother’s art to publisher.
  • July 2012: First copy of The Hakka Cookbook landed on my doorstep on my birthday.
  • September 2012 : Books arrived from printer in China. The Hakka Cookbook officially debuted at the Asian Art Museum on September 29.
  • October to November 2012: Book parties and events. Interviews and articles appeared in local press. Book tour in the Northwest; many with my brother and artist, Alan Lau.
  • November to December 2012: National press: Wall Street Journal. The Hakka Cookbook included on “Favorite or Best of 2012 Cookbook lists”: Saveur, Martha Stewart, Associated Press, The Globe and Mail.
  • February 23, 2013 The Hakka Cookbook tied for the Best Chinese Cuisine Cookbook in World at Gourmand World Cookbook Awards
  • May 19, 2013 The Hakka Cookbook appeared in the New York Times in The Nomad’s Kitchen by Mark Bittman.
  • March 3, 2014: Asia Society Northern California sponsored an event: Chinese Soul Food: Hakka Cuisine at M.Y. China in San Francisco, featuring Martin Yan.
  • 2014 to 2018: Various presentations, classes, and talks. The Hakka Cookbook appeared in numerous publications:
  • 2021: Taiwan publisher SMC Publishing Inc. bought foreign rights to publish The Hakka Cookbook. Look for the Chinese version of The Hakka Cookbook in 2023.

Best Chinese Cookbook in the World

Gourmand World Cookbook Awards 2012


A Hakka writer

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A chance encounter introduces me to a Hakka writer. In my last post, I wrote that I rarely found Hakka characters in books or stories. Recently I got an email message from Loren, a friend in New York. She met a Chinese woman, Jeannie Tseng, walking her dog in Central Park. As they talked, Tseng described her family history as a Hakka, migrating from China to India.

When asked about her cooking traditions, Tseng said her favorite cookbook was my book, The Hakka Cookbook. When Loren told her she knew the author, Tseng was so excited to meet a live connection to her favorite book. When Loren told me this story, I was surprised, flattered and honored. Stories like this make me feel that all my work was worthwhile.

The Hakka Cookbook

I find that Tseng is also a writer and a creative writing teacher. She shared some links to her stories about the Hakka. I love them because they offer a window into Hakka culture and family. Check out these stories. Wasted Rice Child published in The Massachusetts Review reveals generational differences in an immigrant family. Number Eight Daughter won first prize in the Fall 2021 Story Contest in Narrative. The story depicts the life of a girl born to poor parents who sell her to a rich family as a future wife to their son. Enjoy reading the work of this Hakka writer, Jeannie Tseng.

Black Cake, a novel

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My daughter recommended this book to me, Black Cake, a novel by Charmaine Wilkerson. What caught her attention was the inclusion of a Hakka character. I rarely find a Hakka character in a novel so I immediately put a hold on the book. Although the focus is not on the Hakka father, his betrayal changes the life and future of his biracial daughter. Her life becomes a intricate web of lies. An audio recording left to her children after her death reveals long buried family secrets.

I couldn’t stop listening to the audio version of Black Cake. This novel spans generations and moves from the Caribbean, to London, and finally California. Many issues run through the book—family betrayal, racial and gender identity, loyalty, love, cultural diaspora, sibling relationships. There are many characters, but the author deftly wraps up their connections in the end in a symbolic black cake. Revealing the secrets the cake brings the family together.

Hakka from the Caribbean may especially appreciate the cultural notes about life of the Chinese in the West Indies. The author cites my Hakka friends, Paula Williams Madison, author of Finding Samuel Lowe: From Harlem to China and Jeanette Kong, film maker in the acknowledgements.

Best Chinese cookbook in the world

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Give The Hakka Cookbook, Chinese Soul Food from around the World, recognized as the Best Chinese Cookbook in the World in 2012, to Hakka family and friends. The book outlines the Hakka history and defines Hakka identity. Or give the book to a cooking enthusiast who loves Chinese food and history. It’s a great holiday gift for the Chinese foodie.

The Hakka Cookbook awarded Best Chinese Cookbook in the World by Gourmand World Cookbook Awards
The Hakka Cookbook was recognized as the Best Chinese Cookbook of the World by the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in 2012.

Through recipes and stories told by Hakka from all over the world, discover the unique Hakka history, culture, and cuisine. Find 140 recipes, including Hakka classics such as stuffed tofu, lei cha, and salt-baked chicken as well as easy Chinese comfort food. The beginner cook will find sections on cooking techniques, equipment, and ingredients. Paintings created by artist Alan Lau gracefully illustrates the book.

Check this link for sources on where to buy The Hakka Cookbook. It is widely available online. Some of the major sellers are Amazon.com, Books Kinokuniya, and University of California Press. Or ask your local book store to order The Hakka Cookbook for you.

Free access to The Hakka Cookbook

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Our world changed with the COVID-19 crisis. We are hunkered down at home with no where to go–no classes, no work, no parties. Take advantage of this time at home and cook through it. Learn a new skill, try new recipes, cook and eat together.

Two online subscription sites that I am associated with have generously offered free access to recipes from The Hakka Cookbook as well as recipes from other cooking experts and authors.

Grokker cooking video

Want a cooking class or a yoga practice? Check grokker.com , an subscription online site that offers videos from cooking, yoga, and fitness experts. I demonstrate a few recipes from The Hakka Cookbook, as well as other mainstream Chinese recipes. You’ll also find teachers from all cuisines. Grokker is offering free access until the end of April with this link.

Cover of The Hakka Cookbook

Looking for some new recipes to try? Our your libraries closed? Browse through a curated collection of cookbooks at the online subscription site ckbk.com . View the contents and recipes of The Hakka Cookbook as well as many other classic cookbooks. They are offering free access to hundreds of cookbooks for 30 days with this link.

We can get through this. Food will make it better. Stay healthy and well!

Story behind The Hakka Cookbook

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Popo, my inspiration for The Hakka Cookbook

For the story behind The Hakka Cookbook, check out my guest post at ckbk.com , a online curated cookbook collection subscription site. My inspiration came from Popo, my grandmother, who nagged us about being better Chinese children. Popo would say, “You should be proud to be Hakka.” This quote fell on deaf ears. As the only Chinese children in Paradise, a small retirement town in northern California, my brother and I were much more interested in fitting in rather than learning how to be more unique. Decades later, Popo’s words haunted my memory and eventually inspired me to find my Hakka history and identity through food.