About lla

Linda Lau Anusasananan is the author of The Hakka Cookbook: Chinese Soul Food Around the World. After more than three decades writing about food for Sunset Magazine, she traced the history and food trail of her own people, the Hakka, Chinese nomadic pioneers who settled throughout the world. Her cookbook shares her journey with stories and recipes from Hakka from California to Peru.

Welcome the Year of the Dragon

Welcome the Year of the Dragon

Happy Chinese New Year! Khiung Hee Fat Choy! In 2024, the Year of the Dragon begins on February 10. Welcome in the lunar new year with a family feast.


Chinese New Year is a time of renewal, a time for fresh starts. To ensure a promising outcome, feature symbolic foods with auspicious messages such as wealth, longevity, luck, and prosperity on your holiday table. Add family favorites to supplement your feast.


I like to involve everyone in the menu planning and preparation. It’s a big meal for one person to cook. So I invite people to contribute a favorite dish. I often look at The Hakka Cookbook for ideas. I may make the Hakka Egg Roll (page 170) which sort of resemble gold bars.

Hakka Egg Roll
Wrap a thin egg crepe around a pork filling jelly roll style to make Hakka Egg Roll


Someone will bring noodles for long life. Perhaps the Garlic Noodles with Shrimp (page 193) which is similar to lo mein or chow mein. Or the dark Sweet Soy Chow Mein (page 178). Another option might be the savory Noodles with Mushroom Pork Sauce (page 104).

Hakka Noodles with Pork and Mushroom Sauce
Hakka Noodles with Pork and Mushroom Sauce


Green symbolizes growth in business. Perhaps the simple Chinese Broccoli in Sweet Rice Wine (page 230), Stir-Fried Chinese Lettuce and Wine Rice (page 50), or Stir-Fried Water Spinach and Charred Red Chiles (page 71). A colorful combo would be the Ginger-Scented Squash, Peas, and Lily Bulbs (page 52). Perhaps the green pea pods might symbolize the growth of green dollars and the squash could represent gold coins.


Fish brings abundance to the new year. We often cook Steamed Fish with Green Onions (page 39). Although the Braised Fish in Black Bean Sauce (page 137) might be a delicious alternative this year.


We often supplement with a Chinese roast duck. Or we may make the Hakka Salt-Baked Chicken (page 64) or the simpler Salt-Poached Chicken (page 226).

Salt-baked Chicken


May your year be filled with joy, prosperity, and peace. Happy New Year! ! Khiung Hee Fat Choy!

Searching for your Chinese family history

Lately, I’ve been meeting friends who tell me they are trying to learn more about their family history. They want to explore their Chinese roots.


I had the same thoughts when I was in my late 50s. At that time, I had just left a long career at Sunset Magazine and now had the time to explore my family history and Hakka identity. This exploration led to the publication of The Hakka Cookbook. My research started with my Hakka family history. It grew to encompass the unique history and story of the greater Hakka migration. Here I share a few pointers I learned along the way as I looked for my family history.

Tips for searching for your Chinese family history

Identify people in old family photos. Record their names in Chinese characters as well as other English names they may have used. Find out how they are related to you.
  • Interview your family elders now. Record or video their interviews. I wish I had begun my research earlier when my family elders were still alive. It’s much easier to get the information first hand.
  • Ask your elders to identify people in old family photos and their relation to you. Have them write their names in Chinese characters as well as other English names they may have used after migration. Try to date the photos and include where the photo was taken.
  • Ask family members to share their stories about their birthplace, their migration, and their new home. What were their parent’s names? Did they have any siblings? If they migrated from China, ask for the village name. Get Chinese characters for all names. Also record any English names.
  • Can they teach you how to cook favorite family dishes? Many elders do not have written recipes, but if you can cook alongside and record the process you will learn a lot. Video their cooking lesson, so you can capture the process and approximate amounts of ingredients. In the video you can ask questions about the ingredients, the technique, how do they know when it is done, what it should taste and look like.
  • Collect documents. Official documents–birth marriage, citizenship, and death certificates, military discharge papers, school graduation certificates–all can help map a person’s life.
  • If your relatives immigrated through San Francisco check out the National Archives at San Francisco. They found the Angel Island interviews of my grandparents and documents certifying that my grandfather was a merchant.
  • Ask your family to share stories about their life and special memories. What was life like after they immigrated to a new home? How did your parents meet? How did they celebrate Chinese New Year? What was their favorite hobby or passion? Who was their best friend? Was there a key person who changed their life?
The Hakka Cookbook

If you’re Hakka and interested in learning more about your Hakka history, consider reading The Hakka Cookbook, Chinese Soul Food from around the World. It’s more than a cookbook. It includes the history and migration of the Hakka people. Read the stories from Hakka from India, Canada, Peru, Trinidad, Jamaica, Mauritius and more. You can ask your local bookstore to order from you or buy it online.

Braised mushrooms from Luodai

Braised Mountain Mushrooms at Guangdong Guild in Luodai

In October 2005, I spent a day in Luodai, a picturesque Hakka suburb of Chengdu, capital of the Sichuan province. I was there collecting information and recipes for my Hakka cookbook. This town houses many guilds from different provinces in China. The guilds function as social halls with restaurants, tea houses, and meeting rooms. Donations from Hakka from these provinces built these guilds. We eat two Hakka banquets, one at the Jiangxi Guild, and a second one at the Guangdong Guild.

History of the Guangdong Guild in Luodai


One ingredient that appeared in several dishes in both banquets were mushrooms. Mushrooms grow in the mountains nearby. We saw many mushrooms for sale in town. One dish that was served at both banquets was braised mushrooms. It was a relatively straightforward dish that emphasized the pure, earthy mushroom essence. The mushrooms were simply braised in broth, with garlic, ginger, and leek. It’s an easy dish for the home cook. This is a description on how to make the dish. For a more detailed recipe, see The Hakka Cookbook, page 70.


Braised Mountain Mushrooms


Clean about 12 ounces fresh mushrooms (use one or several types). Discard stems from shiitake. Slice the mushrooms about 1/2-inch thick. If pieces are large, cut mushroom slices in 2- 3-inch lengths. Clean1 leek or 2 or 3 green onions, and thinly slice. Cut 2 or 3 large garlic cloves and a1-inch piece of fresh ginger into thin slices.


In a large wok or frying pan over medium-high heat, add 2 tablespoons vegetable oil. Add leek, garlic, and ginger and stir-fry until leek is limp, about 30 seconds, then add mushrooms. Stir-fry until mushrooms are lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add 1 cup chicken or vegetable broth, 2 tablespoons Chinese rice wine (shaoxing) or dry sherry, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon ground white pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer, stirring often until mushrooms are limp, 2 to 3 minutes. Mix 2 tablespoons water with 1 tablespoon cornstarch and add to pan. Stir until the sauce boils. Transfer to serving dish. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

The Hakka Cookbook lives on

The Hakka Cookbook was published in the fall of 2012. More than 10 years later, the book still lives on. A few months ago, Larry Chin from Vancouver, BC contacted me about selling The Hakka Cookbook on his website Chinatown Wonders. His online site promotes Vancouver’s Chinatown through the creations of local artists and creators. His mission is to build and strengthen cultural connections to Chinatown. On Chinatown Wonders, find videos about the history and culture of Vancouver’s Chinatown. Also shop for books, T-shirts and hoodies, cards, cups, and art prints–all created by Asians.


A few months ago, we met Larry and his family when they were visiting San Francisco. Over lunch at the Hakka Restaurant, Larry told me as a Hakka from Malaysia, he was so excited to discover the The Hakka Cookbook. He loved how the book captured the Hakka history and food culture and wanted to share it with the world.


Last week he called to share a story about an memorable encounter he had with a customer. At a recent pop-up event, he displayed a copy of The Hakka Cookbook. A young woman saw The Hakka Cookbook and instantly zeroed in and claimed the book as hers. She told him she was a Hakka from Trinidad. Larry opened the book and showed her the map and how the Hakka migrated throughout the world. They looked up Trinidad, her home country. To their surprise, they found her uncle, Winston H. Chang Jr., on page 161. I had interviewed the “self-proclaimed Hakkaologist” more than a decade ago in Toronto. He graciously shared his story and several recipes with me.

I’m so pleased that she found The Hakka Cookbook. I wrote the book especially for people like her–Hakka who wanted to know more about their history and culinary heritage.

alan@work, a film about Alan Lau, the artist, poet, produce worker

Self portrait by Alan Lau,
artist, poet, produce worker
Self portrait by Alan Lau

This documentary tells the multi-faceted story about my brother, Alan Lau. Alan created the art for The Hakka Cookbook. His art for the book was a mere sketch of his artistic talent as seen in this film. Alan is an artist, poet, produce worker, community leader, and arts editor.

Art for The Hakka Cookbook by Alan Lau
Paintings by Alan Lau for The Hakka Cookbook. Some are in the film, alan@work

The film, alan@work was recently shown at the Seattle International Film Festival. If you missed the theater showings, you can stream it for a short time until the festival ends May 28, 2023. You can buy streaming tickets here.

Alan worked as a produce worker at Uwajimaya in Seattle for many years. The produce inspired him to create art and poems that resulted in the book blues and greens: a produce worker’s journal. The publisher University of Hawaii Press is selling the remaining books at a bargain price of $1. at this site.

The power of food

A surprise awaited me in my pile of mail after a long trip. I opened the package to find five copies of the National Museum of Women in Arts (NMWA) catalogue, Reclamation, Recipes, Remedies, and Rituals. The exhibit showed the power of food bringing people together. I was so happy to receive a printed copy of the exhibit, now archived.


About two years ago I contributed a recipe and story to this project that focused on the cultural table. I shared my mom’s recipe for Steamed Black Bean Spareribs. I sent it with my story of growing up as the first Hakka Chinese family in Paradise, a small all-white town in Northern California.

With the museum closed due to covid and renovation, the exhibit transformed into an innovative online exhibit. It featured images and videos of women artists in their own kitchens. Paired with recipes and stories from the public, the exhibit brought different cultures and generations together. You feel the power of food connecting us through this exhibit.

Chinese restaurants around the world

Have you noticed that everywhere you go around the world, you will find a Chinese restaurant? Cheuk Kwan, a Canadian film-maker and now author, explores this global phenomenon in his new book, Have you Eaten Yet? The book follows Kwan’s exploration of family-run Chinese restaurants from the Arctic to South Africa, from Trinidad to India. The restaurants symbolize the Chinese migration. Kwan tells the stories of these immigrants and how they adapted to their new homes while maintaining their Chinese culture.


Last weekend, Kwan was in the Bay Area to promote his new book. The best way to discuss a book about Chinese restaurants is over a good Chinese meal. So we shared lunch at the Hakka Restaurant in San Francisco. The book records his journey he took over two decades ago when he produced the documentary series Chinese Restaurants. He goes behind the scenes and reveals the feelings, emotions, and soul of these Chinese migrants.

I first met Kwan, shortly after his film series was released in 2004. My daughter had seen one of his episodes at a film festival and suggested I see his series for my book research. I ordered his 15 episode DVD set. Many of his restaurateurs were Hakka, like my father, immigrants looking for a way to make a living.

I contacted Kwan and asked him about his Hakka chefs. He suggested we meet because he would be in the Bay Area for a film festival next week. Our projects shared a similar focus on the global Chinese diaspora.


I was still in the early days of research for my Hakka cookbook. Kwan told me I needed to go to Toronto. He said he could set me up with a Hakka friend who could gather many contacts for me. Within a few weeks, I was in Scarborough, a suburb of Toronto, sharing a meal with a dozen new Hakka friends. They came from all over the world. I interviewed them, asking about their stories and their food. Many of their stories and recipes found their way into The Hakka Cookbook. I’m so grateful to have met Cheuk Kwan.


I asked him about his documentary series, Chinese Restaurants. He said he has posted the episodes on YouTube so everyone can see it. Read “Have you eaten yet?” then view his series to see their faces. It’s an insightful view of the Chinese diaspora. Click this link to see.

The next day at a book signing event at the Oakland Asian Cultural Center, Kwan shared some of his experiences writing the book. Martin Yan also interviewed him about the Chinese diaspora. Read the book and enjoy the historical and revealing journey of Chinese migrants who dared to open a restaurant across the world.

Happy Year of the Rabbit!

Happy Chinese New Year! Khiung Hee Fat Choy! It’s a time of renewal and feasting. In 2023, January 22, marks the start of the Year of the Rabbit. You are a rabbit if you were born in 1963, 1975, 1987, 1999, 2011, and 2023. On the Chinese horoscope, each year is dominated by an animal sign: rat, ox, tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, goat, monkey rooster, dog, and pig. Each animal has special characteristics. This year looks generally positive and favorable for Rabbits, especially in the first quarter. There could be some challenges later in the year.

Chinese zodiac horoscope


A family reunion feast is central to the Chinese New Year celebration. The table is traditionally filled with foods that send auspicious messages to attract wealth, luck, success, unity, and longevity.


As I plan the menu for our family’s new year feast, I’m looking through The Hakka Cookbook for ideas. I like our meals to be a cooperative effort, sort of an organized potluck plus cooking lesson. It’s easier to share cooking duties and hopefully everyone can learn something new. For my grandchildren, I try to include one cooking activity. In the past, we have made won tons, dumplings, and pot stickers. This year we may make Stuffed Tofu (pages 31, 33), sort of a Hakka version of dumplings. The Hakka invented stuffed tofu when they could not find wheat flour in their new home in the south to make the dumplings they ate in the former home in northern China.

Noodles with Mushroom Pork Sauce


Noodles represent long life. I like the dark, umami-rich flavor of Noodles with Mushroom Pork Sauce (page 104). Or perhaps we’ll cook Garlic Noodles and Shrimp (page 193), sort of a Hakka-style Chow Mein.

Steamed Fish with Green Onions
Steamed Fish with Green Onions

Fish is a must-have on Chinese New Year table. The fish brings surplus and abundance to the new year. I like the Steamed Fish with Green Onions (page 39) or the Braised Fish in Black Bean Sauce (page 137). Steaming or braising keeps the delicate flesh moist and is so easy. A green vegetable represents growth in business. I love the simplicity of the stir-fried Chinese Broccoli in Sweet Rice Wine (page 230).

Hakka Egg Roll

Egg or spring rolls look like gold bars, signifying wealth. We could make Spicy Egg Rolls (page184) or the Hakka Egg Rolls (page 170).

Braised Chicken Stuffed with Preserved Mustard Greens

Possibly we may cook the famous Hakka Salt-baked Chicken (page 64) or some of the easier variations. For a special dish, consider making the Braised Chicken stuffed with Preserved Mustard Greens (page 233). Or maybe we’ll buy a Chinese roast duck.


For me, Chinese New Year is about food and family. Khiung Hee Fat Choy! Happy New Year!

Gifts for the aspiring Chinese chef

A cooking kit for the aspiring Chinese chef: The Hakka Cookbook packed in a Chinese steamer basket with ingredients such as Tianjin preserved vegetables, bean sauce, and Chinese rice wine (shaoxing).

Looking for the perfect gift for your aspiring Chinese chef?  If you have someone on your list who wants to learn to cook Chinese food, here are some suggestions for the novice to the more experienced cook. Of course, I would give The Hakka Cookbook with over 140 recipes for Chinese comfort food to special occasion festival dishes. It also includes directions on how to use tools and equipment and a glossary of Chinese pantry ingredients. You can order The Hakka Cookbook from your local bookstore or buy online from many sources, depending on the country you are shopping from.

For a cooking kit, package the book with cooking tools or ingredients. Here are some suggestions.

1. Wok. This is the ultimate all-purpose pan in the Chinese kitchen. Use the wok to stir-fry, deep-fry, braise, boil, and steam. For Western kitchens I would choose a 14-inch flat-bottom wok made from rolled steel or enamel-clad cast iron. Check with the Wok Shop. They will find the right wok for you and your stove. These hard working pans are bargain-priced compared to most Western high quality pans.  Also buy a wok spatula to make stir-frying easier and a wok lid. This versatile bowl-shaped pan can also be used for Western dishes. I use mine to make spaghetti sauce and popcorn.

2. Chinese cleaver. This is the equivalent of the French chef’s knife. It’s an all-purpose knife with the advantage of a wide blade that’s handy for crushing garlic and scooping up cut vegetables.

I’ve used this metal multi-layer Chinese steamer for over 20 years. I can cook two dishes at the same time. The base is also handy for cooking vegetables and noodles.

3. Chinese  metal steamer or bamboo steamer. These steamers can accommodate wide dishes often used to hold a whole fish, meats, and beaten eggs. Choose one about 11 to 12 inches wide. Basket steamers can be stacked and fit inside a wok. If you steam often, consider a metal multi-layer steamer you can cook several dishes at a time. Steaming is an easy and healthful way to cook. The Wok Shop as well as many Asian supermarkets sell these steamers. Also look for them online.

4. Staples of the Chinese pantry. Present an assortment of key seasonings, especially those that are not readily available in the supermarket, such as dark soy sauce, Chinese rice wine (shaoxing), fermented black beans or black bean and garlic sauce, ground bean sauce, Tianjin preserved vegetables, dried black fungus, and dried tangerine peel. Look at The Hakka Pantry starting on page 247 in The Hakka Cookbook for suggestions, descriptions, Chinese names, and shopping guidance. Or add one of our sauces, JADE Sichuan Peanut Sauce, that is ready to eat without cooking for a table sauce, salad dressing, or stir-fry sauce.

Chinese clay pot

5. Chinese clay pot.  For the cook who has the basic equipment, consider giving a clay pot (also known as sand pot). Braise stews, simmer soups, and cook rice in these rustic pots that enhance the natural flavors of the ingredients. They also serve as handsome serving dishes. Buy these pots at an Asian cookware store such as the Wok Shop or online.

The Hakka Cookbook tenth anniversary

Happy Birthday to The Hakka Cookbook! The month marks the 10th anniversary of The Hakka Cookbook. I’m so happy that the book is still in print. It has never been a best seller, but has gained fans among the Hakka population and continues to sell consistently. It has been reprinted at least four times.

Timeline


On this significant anniversary, let’s look back on the journey of the creation and life of The Hakka Cookbook.
  • 2004: I began developing the concept and plan for this book. Interviewed Hakka in Malaysia, Singapore, and Hawaii.
  • 2005: Went on a Hakka scouting trip to China, Taiwan, and Hong Kong.
  • 2006: Worked on the book proposal. Interviewed Hakka in Peru and Toronto, Canada. In March, I found a cookbook agent.
  • 2007: Worked on the book, researched, and tested recipes. After 1 ½ years, ended my contract with the agent. Decided to sell the manuscript myself.
  • 2008: Went to my first Toronto Hakka Conference. Found a publisher!
  • 2009: Publisher canceled contract due to economic downturn. Continued working on the book and looked for a new publisher.
  • 2010: University of California Press accepted my proposal!
  • 2011: Edited the book. Forwarded my brother’s art to publisher.
  • July 2012: First copy of The Hakka Cookbook landed on my doorstep on my birthday.
  • September 2012 : Books arrived from printer in China. The Hakka Cookbook officially debuted at the Asian Art Museum on September 29.
  • October to November 2012: Book parties and events. Interviews and articles appeared in local press. Book tour in the Northwest; many with my brother and artist, Alan Lau.
  • November to December 2012: National press: Wall Street Journal. The Hakka Cookbook included on “Favorite or Best of 2012 Cookbook lists”: Saveur, Martha Stewart, Associated Press, The Globe and Mail.
  • February 23, 2013 The Hakka Cookbook tied for the Best Chinese Cuisine Cookbook in World at Gourmand World Cookbook Awards
  • May 19, 2013 The Hakka Cookbook appeared in the New York Times in The Nomad’s Kitchen by Mark Bittman.
  • March 3, 2014: Asia Society Northern California sponsored an event: Chinese Soul Food: Hakka Cuisine at M.Y. China in San Francisco, featuring Martin Yan.
  • 2014 to 2018: Various presentations, classes, and talks. The Hakka Cookbook appeared in numerous publications:
  • 2021: Taiwan publisher SMC Publishing Inc. bought foreign rights to publish The Hakka Cookbook. Look for the Chinese version of The Hakka Cookbook in 2023.

Best Chinese Cookbook in the World

Gourmand World Cookbook Awards 2012