Category Archives: Equipment

Gifts for the aspiring Chinese chef

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A cooking kit for the aspiring Chinese chef: The Hakka Cookbook packed in a Chinese steamer basket with ingredients such as Tianjin preserved vegetables, bean sauce, and Chinese rice wine (shaoxing).

Looking for the perfect gift for your aspiring Chinese chef?  If you have someone on your list who wants to learn to cook Chinese food, here are some suggestions for the novice to the more experienced cook. Of course, I would give The Hakka Cookbook with over 140 recipes for Chinese comfort food to special occasion festival dishes. It also includes directions on how to use tools and equipment and a glossary of Chinese pantry ingredients. You can order The Hakka Cookbook from your local bookstore or buy online from many sources, depending on the country you are shopping from.

For a cooking kit, package the book with cooking tools or ingredients. Here are some suggestions.

1. Wok. This is the ultimate all-purpose pan in the Chinese kitchen. Use the wok to stir-fry, deep-fry, braise, boil, and steam. For Western kitchens I would choose a 14-inch flat-bottom wok made from rolled steel or enamel-clad cast iron. Check with the Wok Shop. They will find the right wok for you and your stove. These hard working pans are bargain-priced compared to most Western high quality pans.  Also buy a wok spatula to make stir-frying easier and a wok lid. This versatile bowl-shaped pan can also be used for Western dishes. I use mine to make spaghetti sauce and popcorn.

2. Chinese cleaver. This is the equivalent of the French chef’s knife. It’s an all-purpose knife with the advantage of a wide blade that’s handy for crushing garlic and scooping up cut vegetables.

I’ve used this metal multi-layer Chinese steamer for over 20 years. I can cook two dishes at the same time. The base is also handy for cooking vegetables and noodles.

3. Chinese  metal steamer or bamboo steamer. These steamers can accommodate wide dishes often used to hold a whole fish, meats, and beaten eggs. Choose one about 11 to 12 inches wide. Basket steamers can be stacked and fit inside a wok. If you steam often, consider a metal multi-layer steamer you can cook several dishes at a time. Steaming is an easy and healthful way to cook. The Wok Shop as well as many Asian supermarkets sell these steamers. Also look for them online.

4. Staples of the Chinese pantry. Present an assortment of key seasonings, especially those that are not readily available in the supermarket, such as dark soy sauce, Chinese rice wine (shaoxing), fermented black beans or black bean and garlic sauce, ground bean sauce, Tianjin preserved vegetables, dried black fungus, and dried tangerine peel. Look at The Hakka Pantry starting on page 247 in The Hakka Cookbook for suggestions, descriptions, Chinese names, and shopping guidance. Or add one of our sauces, JADE Sichuan Peanut Sauce, that is ready to eat without cooking for a table sauce, salad dressing, or stir-fry sauce.

Chinese clay pot

5. Chinese clay pot.  For the cook who has the basic equipment, consider giving a clay pot (also known as sand pot). Braise stews, simmer soups, and cook rice in these rustic pots that enhance the natural flavors of the ingredients. They also serve as handsome serving dishes. Buy these pots at an Asian cookware store such as the Wok Shop or online.

Asian steamers, a gift for the cook

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Chinese stacked steamerLooking for ideas for holiday gifts? Consider giving an Asian steamer as a gift for the cook on your list. The steamer works for any cuisine, but assumes a major role in Asian cooking because it is so easy and healthy.

Foods cook gently in a moist environment, preserving succulence and nutrients. Unlike Western steaming which commonly translates to steaming vegetables on a wobbly rack over water, Chinese often steam composed dishes with seasonings in a wide shallow bowl or Pyrex pie plate. The dish collects the flavorful juices. So a steamer needs to be wide enough to accommodate the dish and elevate it high enough so the water does not flow into the dish. Sure, you can set up a make shift steamer using a deep wide pan, lid, rack, and empty cans to elevate the rack, but if you steam often it’s much easier with an Asian steamer.

There are several different styles. If kitchen storage is tight, consider bamboo basket-like steamers with bamboo lids that reduce condensation. Nestle the bamboo steamers into a large wide wok. The sloping sides of a wok hold the steamer basket/rack above the water. Choose a 11- to 12-inch steamer wide enough to accommodate at least a 9-inch wide dish. The bamboo steamers can be stacked, so several dishes can be cooked at the same time. Buy as sets or individual racks.

bamboo steamer with adapter

Bamboo steamer with adapter at the Wok shop http://www.wokshop.com/store/detail.php?show=482

 

 

If you don’t have a wok, consider this option at the Wok Shop in San Francisco. They sell an aluminum adapter for $7.95 (does not include pot or bamboo steamers). The adapter, a donut-shaped ring, fits over the rim of a pan and the bamboo steamers sits on the adapter, allowing you to steam using an ordinary pan you may already have at home. The adapter fits 8, 10, and 12-inch bamboo steamers.

steamed fish

Fish and rice steam together in a tiered steamer.

I often use a 3-tier aluminum steamer. Mine, pictured above, is about 30 years old. Similar models are also available in stainless steel. The bottom pan holds water, the top two tiers are the steaming racks. They are sturdier than the bamboo versions but need more storage space in the kitchen. I often cook different foods in each tier. After steaming, I lift off the top tiers and quickly blanch vegetables in the boiling water in the bottom. You can cook a whole meal in a multi-layer steamer; see this steamed fish dinner that I cook almost once a week.

Look for other steamed dishes  in this blog such as Steamed Minced Pork and Eggs, Mom’s Black Bean Pork Spareribs, and Steamed Stuffed Tofu. There are many other steamed dishes in The Hakka Cookbook.

I find the Wok Shop in San Francisco a great source for Asian cooking equipment. Stop by the store if you are San Francisco Chinatown or shop online.

 

 

Thai Rooster bowls with Hakka roots

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In January, photos of charming Chinese bowls with a distinctive colorful rooster pattern caught my eye in the Bangkok Post’s feature article. Little did I know, that these rooster bowls had Hakka roots.

The story was about Yupin Dhanabadeesakul, a woman who was following her Chinese immigrant father’s footsteps in their family ceramics business. Her father, Simyu Sae-chin migrated from Guangdong to Thailand during China’s civil war. He was a ceramic craftsman and when he discovered kaolin clay near Lampang, he opened a ceramic factory and crafted bowls hand painted with a colorful rooster, the same design he used in China. When I read about his Chinese roots, I couldn’t help but wonder if he was Hakka.

Yupin Dhanabadeesakul , owner with Hakka roots, still works in the family ceramics factory

Almost a year later, I found myself in Chiang Mai, not far from Lampang. I remembered the article about the rooster bowls and suggested we visit the Dhanabadee factory. There is a museum, factory outlet and workshop where you can paint ceramic objects with your own design. Our grand children painted elephants while their parents shopped. While their painted ceramic elephants were fired in the kiln, we went on a fascinating tour of the museum that highlights the family company’s history and the production of the ceramics.

I was surprised to see Yupin, the daughter of the founder featured in the article, humbly working on the production line, trimming clay bowls. After our tour we asked if we could take a photo with the owner. She gladly agreed. My husband asked her in Thai if she was Chinese Hakka ( Jeen  Kae.) She answered yes, but her father wanted to make it easier for his children to assimilate in his new country so he gave his children a Thai name. Even with her Thai name, Yupin epitomizes the spirit and tenacity of the hard-working Hakka woman.

Dhanabadee Ceramic Museum Address 543 M.1, T.GLOUYPAE, A.MUANG, LAMPANG 52000 THAILAND Tel. (+66) 05435 4011-2

Easy Chinese steamed fish dinner

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Chinese steamed fish and riceNeed a quick, no-fuss, healthy dinner? Steamed fish, rice, and green vegetables is my go-to meal that cooks in one versatile pan—a Chinese multi-layer steamer. With relatively little effort, I am rewarded with a complete meal highlighted by moist succulent fish.

The origin is Chinese. In a Hakka restaurant in Meizhou, China, we ate a steamed whole fish, very simply seasoned with a bit of ginger, rice wine, soy sauce, and green onions (page 39 in The Hakka Cookbook). Throughout China, we ate different variations of steamed fish, sometimes with fermented black beans, chiles, red peppers, and pickled mustard greens. In Meizhou, we also ate rice steamed in small clay bowls (page 270 in The Hakka Cookbook). I merge these two in this easy, quick meal. Chinese stacked steamer

With a big Chinese steamer this meal cooks efficiently in about 30 minutes.  I use a  self-contained multi-layer metal steamer. You could also use two stacked bamboo steamer racks over a 14-inch wok. Cook bowls of rice on one layer and fish on the top layer. When both are done, plunge vegetables into the boiling water in the base pan and cook briefly, then drain. Look for the steamers at the Wok Shop, Asian cookware stores and Asian supermarkets, and online. Choose steamers or bamboo steamer racks at least 11- to 12-inches wide to accommodate wide plates.

Steamed Fish and Rice for 2

In this easy version, I often use a piece of fish fillet. You can also use a small whole fish and increase the seasonings. Season fish as you like: choose from shiitake mushrooms slivers, sliced chiles, dried hot chile flakes, pickled mustard green slivers, lemon slices, fresh herbs. If desired, lightly mix the cooked green vegetables with Chinese oyster sauce and sesame oil to taste.

2/3 cup white long grain rice

12 to 16 ounces fish fillet such as rock fish, salmon, or halibut

1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine (shaoxing)

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon thinly slivered fresh ginger

1 tablespoon fermented black beans, rinsed (optional)

Salt to taste

1 green onion, thinly sliced or slivered, included tops

6 to 8 ounces Chinese green vegetable such as Chinese broccoli (gai lan) or yau choy (ends, trimmed and cut in 3-inch lengths), or baby bok choy (cut in halves or quarters lengthwise)

1 tablespoon vegetable oil or sesame oil

Cilantro leaves (optional)

 

1.  Fill the base of a Chinese metal steamer half to two-thirds full of water or a 14-inch wok (if using bamboo steamer racks). Set wok over a ring if it has a round bottom to stablize.  Bring water to a boil over high heat.

2.  Rinse 1/3 cup rice in fine wire strainer; drain. Place rice in a small Chinese rice bowl (about 1 cup size). Fill bowl with 1/3 cup water. Repeat for second bowl. Repeat if you want additional bowls of rice. Place rice bowls in one steamer rack. When water boils, set filled steamer rack over water, cover and steam about 15 minutes.

3. Meanwhile rinse fish and pat dry. Place fish (skin-side down, if attached) on shallow heatproof dish (such as a 9-inch Pyrex pie pan) that will fit inside a steamer. Drizzle fish evenly with wine and soy sauce. Sprinkle evenly with ginger, black beans, and salt. Sprinkle white part of onion over fish. Set fish in second steamer rack.

4. After rice has steamed 15 minutes, set steamer rack with fish on top of rack with rice. Cover fish. (In a wok, you may need to add more boiling water as it evaporates.) Continue steaming until fish looks almost opaque in thickest part, 8 to 10 minutes for about 1 inch thick piece and rice is tender. In a wok, you may need to add more boiling water as it evaporates. When fish is done, lift off both steamer racks and set the stacked racks on a towel-covered counter. (Be careful, steam is very hot.) Keep steamer racks covered and allow fish to rest.

5.  Add more water to pan if pan is less than half full and return to boil over high heat. Add vegetable and cook until bright green and barely tender, about 2 minutes. Drain, place vegetable in a serving bowl.

6.  Sprinkle remaining green onions over fish. In a small pan over high heat, cook the vegetable oil until very hot and pour over green onions and fish. If using sesame oil, do not heat. Sprinkle fish with cilantro. Serve fish with rice and vegetables.

Gifts for the aspiring Chinese cook

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gift with book and steamerIf there’s a cook on your holiday gift list who is interested in Chinese history and cuisine, consider The Hakka Cookbook. Or if you know someone who is Hakka, give them the book to help them discover their own cultural and culinary heritage. They can learn how to cook Hakka classics such as stuffed tofu and salt-baked chicken as well as easy Chinese comfort food.  The Hakka Cookbook was named “Best Chinese Cuisine Cookbook in the World in 2013 by the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.

If they already own the book, take a look at this post from last year for other gift suggestions from cooking tools (woks, steamers, clay pots, Chinese cleavers) to ethnic ingredients. Or assemble a Chinese cooking kit.

Happy holidays! May it be full of joy and good food!

 

5 gifts for the cook

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gift with book and steamerLooking for the perfect gift?  If you have someone on your list who wants to learn to cook Chinese food, here are some suggestions for the novice to the more experienced cook. Of course, I would include The Hakka Cookbook that explains how to use the gift with detailed instructions on techniques, ingredients, and equipment as well as over 140 recipes for Chinese comfort food to special occasion festival dishes. Package a few items together for a Chinese cooking kit.

1. Wok. This is the ultimate all-purpose pan in the Chinese kitchen. Use the wok to stir-fry, deep-fry, braise, boil, and steam. For Western kitchens I would choose a 14-inch flat-bottom wok made from rolled steel or enamel-clad cast iron. Check with the Wok Shop. They will find the right wok for you and your stove. These hard working pans are bargain-priced compared to most high quality pans.  Also buy a wok spatula to make stir-frying easier.

2. Chinese cleaver. This is the equivalent of the French chef’s knife. It’s an all-purpose knife with the advantage of a wide blade that’s handy for crushing garlic and scooping up cut vegetables.

3. Chinese  metal steamer or bamboo steamer. These steamers can accommodate wide dishes often used to hold a whole fish, meats, and beaten eggs. Choose one about 11 to 12 inches wide for the most versatility. In a multilayer steamer you can cook several dishes at a time. Steaming is an easy and healthful way to cook. The Wok Shop as well as many Asian supermarkets sell these steamers. Also look for them online.

4. Staples of the Chinese pantry. Present an assortment of key seasonings, especially those that are not readily available in the supermarket, such as dark soy sauce, Chinese rice wine (shaoxing), fermented black beans or black bean and garlic sauce, ground bean sauce, Tianjin preserved vegetables, dried black fungus, and dried tangerine peel. Look at The Hakka Pantry starting on page 247 in The Hakka Cookbook for suggestions, descriptions, Chinese names, and shopping guidance. Or add one of my sauces, JADE Sichuan Peanut Sauce, that is ready to eat without cooking for a table sauce, salad dressing, or stir-fry sauce.

Fragrant Rice cooked in Chinese clay pot.

Fragrant Rice cooked in Chinese clay pot.

5. Chinese clay pot.  For the cook who has the basic equipment, consider giving a clay pot (also known as sand pot). Braise stews, simmer soups, and cook rice in these rustic pots that enhance the natural flavors of the ingredients. They also serve as handsome serving dishes. Best to buy these pots at an Asian cookware store such as the Wok Shop. Also available online.

Happy cooking and eating!

My favorite woks

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Stir-frying in an enamel clad cast-iron wok. Twenty-five year old carbon steel wok rests in foreground.

At my Hakka cooking party, I brought woks for stir-frying. Although we could have used a 12-inch frying pan, I find the wok far superior. With its bowl-like shape and great heat conductivity, the wok is one of the most versatile pans there is. Use it for stir-frying, braising, deep-frying, steaming, pan-browning, boiling, and smoking.

My friends questioned me about the woks. Many had admitting once owning a wok, but gave it away. Think of a wok like a cast iron frying pan. You need to scrub it, then season it with oil to seal the pores. Use it often and it develops a non-stick patina. Once you get the hang of it, you will use the wok for everything.  Besides Chinese stir-fries, I use the wok to make spaghetti sauce, stews, and even popcorn. It will last forever. It’s the best pan for camping trips, versatile and rugged.

“Which wok should I buy,” they asked. The wok should measure about 14-inches across. This is a good size for most home ranges. With gas burners you can use a flat or round bottom wok. Round bottom woks need a ring to stabilize the pan when used for steaming or deep-frying.  With electric burners, choose the flat bottom wok.

I brought two woks. One is a traditional carbon steel round bottom wok with one long wood handle and a short handle on the opposite side. The long handle is easy to grasp when stir-frying and sits on my gas burner. However, for most people a flat bottom version of this wok might be preferable. My wok is more than twenty-five years old and has a dark patina from frequent use. About seven years ago, Tane Chan of The Wok Shop in San Francisco gave me a two-handled enamel-clad cast iron flat-bottom wok which I use almost everyday.  Both are priced under $25.

To season these woks, scrub them well, inside and out. Coat the surfaces  (no need to coat enamel exterior) with a light film of neutral flavored vegetable oil. If there are wood handles, remove or wrap with a damp cloth and foil. Bake, upside- down, in a preheated 425° F oven for about 20 minutes. To remove the metallic taste,  place wok over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons oil and cut-up onions or Chinese chives and stir-fry, pressing vegetables into the pan, until about two-thirds of the pan turns black, 10 to 15 minutes. Throw out vegetables. Wipe off excess oil and you’re ready to stir-fry.

You need to use your wok, preferably often, to develop a patina. People give up on woks too soon.  Don’t scrub it too hard or you will remove the seasoning. Simply soak the pan until stuck-on food is soft, then wipe off and rinse. I dry the pan over a hot burner to make sure it is thoroughly dry. Storing a wok damp may cause it to rust. A wok should not be shiny and bright like a stainless steel pan. It’s a work in progress. The color of your pan will change as it is used and eventually develop dark color and natural nonstick finish.

An easy way to restore the patina is to pop corn it it. Simply place the wok over medium-high heat. When the pan is hot, Add about 3 tablespoons vegetable oil and 1/3 cup popcorn kernels. Cover the pan and shake pan often until popping subsides, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour out popcorn. The popcorn spreads the oil all over the pan evenly. Repeat, then wipe out excess oil. Your bonus is popcorn to snack on.

When buying your wok, also get a domed lid, curved wok spatula, and if buying a round bottom wok, get a wok ring. A good source to buy your woks is at The Wok Shop which is also online. My friend Tane Chan can guide you.