New Hakka Restaurant in San Francisco

Posted on June 28, 2019 by lla

Welcome a new Hakka restaurant to San Francisco. Zhong Shan Restaurant recently opened in the Sunset district. If you have eaten at the Hakka Restaurant on Cabrillo and 45th Avenue, you’ll find this restaurant familiar because that chef/owner has taken over this restaurant.

In 2011 I had interviewed Chef Jin Hua Li, chef/owner of the Hakka Restaurant and featured some of his recipes in The Hakka Cookbook. Since my introduction to the restaurant, we feasted on many wonderful Hakka dishes at his restaurant on Cabrillo and 45th Avenue.

A few months ago, we dined with a group of friends at the Hakka Restaurant and met two young waiters who told us their father was the new owner and chef. We were surprised because the food tasted very similar to our past meals at this restaurant under Chef Li. The sons told us that Chef Li had sold this restaurant to their father and opened a new restaurant on Taraval.

Menu at Zhong Shan Restaurant

House specials on Zhong Shan Restaurant menu

New dishes freshen the menu. The number of House Specialties have almost doubled.

Last weekend, we tried Chef Li’s new restaurant Zhong Shan. Happily, the food and menu are similar to his previous restaurant. Our old Hakka favorites were still there—Chinese Bacon with Preserved Green, House Special Pan Fried Stuffed Tofu, and Pumpkin Strips with Salted Egg. New dishes freshen the menu. The number of House Specialties have almost doubled.

Pork Stomach with Chicken
Tiger prawns with Soy Sauce
Japanese Tofu with Baby Mushrooms
Sticky Rice in Lotus Leaf
Chinese Bacon with Preserved Greens
Salt & Pepper Pork Neck

Our friend, Paul, who had eaten at both the old and new restaurants, ordered the meal. In addition to our old favorites we sampled some new dishes. Pork Stomach with Chicken pleasantly surprised us. Strips of chewy-crunchy pork stomach tumbled over chunks of moist salt-baked chicken. Pungent, burning wasabi electrified the flavor. A fine mince of black truffles added a subtle earthy aroma to the egg enriched custard-like Japanese Tofu with Baby Mushrooms. Salt and Pepper Pork Neck offered a stir-fry of flavorful, chewy pork neck strips with crunchy green beans. Tiger Prawns with Soy Sauce brought big plump prawns, butterflied in their shells, and lightly seasoned with soy sauce. They were finger-licking good. Spicy Squid with Black Pepper Sauce featured scored squid pieces stir-fried with green and red pepper chunks.

Paul also ordered a couple of dishes not on the menu. Oysters and Eggs brought moist oysters gently cooked with beaten eggs for a simple comforting dish, not laden with oil. Chinese Broccoli (gai lon) with Salted Fish is a variation of their Sautéed Chinese Broccoli, however, this version is lightly seasoned with a smidgen of good quality salted fish. It did not taste fishy or strong. Sticky Rice in Lotus Leaf and House Special Fried Rice Noodles balanced our meal.

Zhong Shan Restaurant contact information

The new restaurant appears a bit smaller with no upstairs dining room. The decor looks fresh and new. Judging by the full noisy dining room, Zhong Shan Restaurant already scores as a neighborhood favorite.

Zhong Shan Restaurant

2237 Taraval Street (Between 32nd & 33rd Avenue)

San Francisco, CA 94116

415. 592. 8938

Hakka cooking lessons on Netflix

Posted on June 22, 2019 by lla

Recently, I stumbled across a Malaysian series, The Missing Menu on Netflix. This emotional drama features a Hakka widow who tries to bring her family together with her delicious food. Through cooking certain dishes she hopes to teach her children how to live life.

In each episode, she showcases two dishes, usually Hakka or Hokkien (her husband was Hokkien). At the end of each segment, a younger version of this Hakka chef demonstrates how to cook the featured dishes. Learn how to prepare Salt-baked Chicken, Pork Patty, Vinegar Pork Trotters, Ginger Duck, Pork Belly and Taro, and many more. She shares bits of Hakka history as she cooks. Check out The Missing Menu. In Chinese with English subtitles.

Easy, quick Hakka recipes for the family

Posted on June 3, 2019 by lla

Stir-fry seasoned ground pork with chunks of tofu and season with soy sauce for quick kid-friendly meal.

On my Facebook page I received a request for easy, fast, family friendly Hakka recipes from someone who owned The Hakka Cookbook. She had children and didn’t have time to find the easiest recipes. Over the years, I have pointed out a number of quick choices in this blog. Here’s one of the most kid-friendly meals that will not tax the most stressed cook.

Stir-fried Tofu and Pork Hash (page 123 in The Hakka Cookbook) takes the flavors of the Hakka classic, Stuffed Tofu (nyiong tiu fu in Hakka), and deconstructs the elements into a quick and easy stir-fry worthy of a weeknight family dinner. It’s so easy you almost don’t need a recipe. Just season some ground pork like you would when making stuffed tofu. Drain and crumble tofu into big chunks. Stir-fry the meat until browned and crumbly, add tofu, and soy sauce to taste. Cook until hot. Garnish with sliced green onions.

Serve with Stir-fried Iceberg Lettuce and Garlic (page 27) or Chinese Broccoli with Sweet Rice Wine (page 230), or your favorite stir-fried greens. Add hot cooked rice and you have a quick, satisfying, and nutritious dinner for 3 or 4. The mild flavors will please young diners but are savory enough to satisfy adult tastes.

Hakka Food in Australia

Posted on May 14, 2019 by lla

Hakka migrated all over the world. While on a recent tour through Australia, I looked for a Hakka restaurant and found Wei Long, recommended by the Facebook group Hakka Australia. I was told the owners, Austen Wang and Kerry Yan, were Moiyan-born Hakka. Six years ago they immigrated to Australia. When they could not find Hakka food like they ate in Meizhou, they started this Hakka restaurant in Sydney.

Luckily, Wei Long was walking distance from our hotel. A few people from our tour group joined us for an impromptu dinner. There were many choices on their multi-page dinner menu. Because our small group had diverse tastes and some dietary restrictions, each person chose one dish to share. Here are a few dishes we tried. There are many more choices.

Hakka-style clams on a bed of pan-fried noodle coils

Hakka-style clams (not sure of how it was listed on the menu) brought stir-fried clams, flecked with a few red chile slices, in a savory sauce over a bed of pan-fried rice noodle coils. The noodles soaked up the sauce, yet maintained a slight crisp edge from panfrying.

A slow-cooked Stewed Meat Soup with Red Rice arrived in a small covered clay container. Red yeast rice, often used to color rice wine, imbued the soup with chunks of minced beef with a rusty red hue. It was hot, satisfying, and comforting. A simple stir-fry of prawns and cashews pleased all tastes.

The moist, tender Salt-Buried Chicken was drizzled with a savory sauce that tasted of the musty camphor flavor of sand ginger (sha jiang).

My husband loves Sweet and Sour Pork so we tried Hakka-style Sweet and Sour Pork. Not sure what made it Hakka but it tasted lighter, fresher, and less cloying sweet than most versions.

If you’re in Sydney, Australia and want to try Hakka cuisine, visit Wei Long in the Central Business District.

Wei Long
Shop 330
289-295 Sussex St
Sydney New South Wales 2000
Australia
Phone number +61 2 9283 3570

Hakka influences Chaoshan cuisine

Posted on March 13, 2019 by lla

As the Hakka scattered throughout the world, they influenced local cuisines of their new homes. This became evident as I viewed the new beautifully filmed Chinese documentary series “Flavorful Origins” on Netflix. Season one focuses on Chaoshan (Teoswa), a coastal region in the eastern part of Guangdong province about 200 miles north of Hong Kong. Major cities in the region are Shantou, Chaozhou, and Jieyang. People who live there are also known as Teochew or Chiu Chow. As I viewed the series I saw how the Hakka influence Chaoshan cuisine. It’s no surprise because Hakka regions, Meizhou and Fujian lie nearby. In the Hakka diaspora, we find that neighbors often borrowed from each other.

In season 1, episode 10 we see the Hakka in Chaoshan introduced Lei Cha (aka Lui Cha). The locals embraced it and some created their own versions. Most grind sesame seeds, peanuts, and fresh green herbs such as mint, fennel, and dried tea leaves with a mortar and pestle to make a paste. Then they stir in hot water to create a green herbaceous tea. Some mix in a stir-fried mixture of fresh tea leaves and vegetables. Others might add a mixture of stir-fried peanuts and greens and popped rice. The choice of herbs and spices may vary.

I’ve only eaten lei cha in Malaysia, Singapore, and Taiwan. Each version differed depending on the cook and the region. Some were savory, others sweet. Find these recipes in The Hakka Cookbook (pages 99 and 119).

Look for other Hakka influences in this series directed by Chen Xiaoqing. It is narrated in Mandarin but there are English subtitles (have the pause button ready because the captions disappear from the screen very quickly). Or change your audio settings to English, if needed. The educational and luscious episodes run for less than 15 minutes. Savor this beautiful food documentary.

Healthy foods for Chinese New Year

Posted on February 11, 2019 by lla

Savory Pounded Tea Rice

Today is the 7th day of the Lunar New Year. According to ChineseAmericanFamily.com The seventh day commemorates Nu Wa, the ancient goddess who is believed to have created mankind from yellow clay. On this day, Chinese people eat healthy foods with auspicious meanings. For the Hakka, that dish might be lui cha (aka lei cha, thunder tea). Several variations exist from savory to sweet.

This dish claims to cure almost any health issue. This cure-all reputation originated almost 2000 years ago when in a crucial battle, a general ordered a Hakka doctor to treat his plaque-stricken troops. The doctor prescribed a tea made from pounded seeds, nuts, and tea leaves. When the sick troops drank the tea they miraculously recovered.

Vegetable Tea

In The Hakka Cookbook, you’ll find recipes for the Savory Pounded Tea Rice from Malaysia on page 119 and Pounded Tea with Sweets from Taiwan on page 99. Loh Sye Moi from Malaysia serves a simpler related soup-like dish she calls Vegetable Tea (page 113). Although it does not include tea leaves, it includes many vegetables and toasted seeds and nuts.

Many of the ingredients in these dishes have auspicious meanings. Green vegetables symbolize close family ties. Peanuts promote health, long life, prosperity, continuous growth, wealth and good fortune, stability. Seeds symbolize fertility. Walnuts promise happiness for the whole family.

On this day consider celebrating humans by eating foods that promote your good health. May the Year of the Pig bring you good health, prosperity, and abundance!

Foods for Chinese New Year

Posted on February 7, 2019 by lla

Photo by Dabin Lo

Thanks to everyone who braved the rain Monday night and showed up for my event at the Menlo Park Library. We had a good turnout. Everyone seemed to enjoy the presentation. It was especially rewarding for me to meet some fellow Hakka in the audience.

I gave a short introduction on the Hakka history and cuisine, followed by slides of traditions and foods for Chinese New Year. I ended by cooking three recipes from The Hakka Cookbook that might fit into a New Year dinner.

Here is one of the recipes I demonstrated. It is in The Hakka Cookbook but I increased the quantities slightly here so there would be more for tasting. This recipe was featured in the New York Times Magazine several years ago.

Photo by Dabin Lo

Stir-fried Pork and Pineapple (The Hakka Cookbook, p. 92)

This stir-fry from Taiwan is reminiscent of a lighter and fresher version of sweet and sour pork. Auspicious ingredients include crunchy black fungus that represents longevity. Pineapple symbolizes wealth, luck, excellent fortune, and luck in gambling. Pork offers strength, wealth, and abundant blessings.

Makes 3 servings as a main dish or 5 to 6 servings as part of a multicourse meal

Pork

12 ounces boneless pork shoulder, leg, or loin, trimmed of fat

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 1/2 teaspoons vegetable oil

1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch

Sauce

3 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 1/2 tablespoons sugar

1 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce

3/4 teaspoon salt

Stir-fry

12 pieces dried black fungus, such as cloud ears, each about 1 inch wide

5 green onions, including green tops, ends trimmed

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 tablespoons thinly slivered fresh ginger

12 ounces fresh pineapple, cut into 3/4-inch chunks (about 1 1/2 cups)

6 to 10 thin rings fresh chile (preferably red) such as jalapeno or Fresno (remove seeds, if you prefer less spicy heat)

1. For the pork: Thinly slice pork into strips about 2 inches long and 1 inch wide. In a small bowl, mix the pork with the soy sauce, oil, and cornstarch.

2. For the sauce: In a small bowl, mix the vinegar, sugar, soy sauce, and salt.

3. For the stir-fry: Rinse the fungus. Soak the fungus in hot water until soft, 5 to 15 minutes, drain. Pinch out and discard any hard knobby centers. Cut the fungus into 1-inch pieces. Cut the green onions into 2-inch lengths. Cut thick ends in half lengthwise.

4. Set a 14-inch wok or 12-inch frying pan over high heat. When the pan is hot, after about 1 minute. Add the oil and rotate the pan to spread. Add the ginger and pork; stir-fry until meat is lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add the pineapple, black fungus, sauce mixture, green onions, and chile. Stir-fry until the pineapple is hot, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to serving dish.

Photo by Dabin Lo

Free Chinese New Year event tonight

Posted on February 4, 2019 by lla

Chinese New Year: Foods and Traditions: Tonight, Monday, February 4, 2019, I will be giving a talk/slide show/ cooking demo at the Menlo Park Library. I will also include an introduction about Hakka history and cuisine. Please join me tonight. Bring your friends.

Chinese New Year: Foods and Traditions

February 4, Monday, 6 to 7:30 pm

Menlo Park Library, 800 Alma St., Menlo Park, CA 94025

Contact: John Weaver jnweaver@menlopark.org 650-330-2501

Adults and teens only

Free, advance registration not needed

Chinese New Year Foods and Traditions

Posted on January 20, 2019 by lla

Welcome to the Year of the Pig! Happy Chinese New Year! Khiung Hee Fat Choy! ????!

Join me as we usher in the lunar new year on Monday night, February 4 at the Menlo Park Library. Through photos and food, I will share Chinese New Year foods and traditions. Also learn about my history and the story of China’s guest families known as the Hakka. Cooking demo and tastings included.

Chinese celebrate this period of renewal for 15 days with family reunions, festive banquets, symbolic decorations, red envelopes filled with money, and good wishes. Come and explore this joyful time. I look forward to seeing you. Bring your copy of The Hakka Cookbook for signing. A few copies will be available for purchase.

Chinese New Year: Foods and Traditions

February 4, Monday, 6 to 7:30 pm

Menlo Park Library, 800 Alma St., Menlo Park, CA 94025

Contact: John Weaver jnweaver@menlopark.org 650-330-2501

Adults and teens only

Free, advance registration not needed

Asian steamers, a gift for the cook

Posted on December 5, 2018 by lla

Looking for ideas for holiday gifts? Consider giving an Asian steamer as a gift for the cook on your list. The steamer works for any cuisine, but assumes a major role in Asian cooking because it is so easy and healthy.

Foods cook gently in a moist environment, preserving succulence and nutrients. Unlike Western steaming which commonly translates to steaming vegetables on a wobbly rack over water, Chinese often steam composed dishes with seasonings in a wide shallow bowl or Pyrex pie plate. The dish collects the flavorful juices. So a steamer needs to be wide enough to accommodate the dish and elevate it high enough so the water does not flow into the dish. Sure, you can set up a make shift steamer using a deep wide pan, lid, rack, and empty cans to elevate the rack, but if you steam often it’s much easier with an Asian steamer.

There are several different styles. If kitchen storage is tight, consider bamboo basket-like steamers with bamboo lids that reduce condensation. Nestle the bamboo steamers into a large wide wok. The sloping sides of a wok hold the steamer basket/rack above the water. Choose a 11- to 12-inch steamer wide enough to accommodate at least a 9-inch wide dish. The bamboo steamers can be stacked, so several dishes can be cooked at the same time. Buy as sets or individual racks.

Bamboo steamer with adapter at the Wok shop http://www.wokshop.com/store/detail.php?show=482

If you don’t have a wok, consider this option at the Wok Shop in San Francisco. They sell an aluminum adapter for $7.95 (does not include pot or bamboo steamers). The adapter, a donut-shaped ring, fits over the rim of a pan and the bamboo steamers sits on the adapter, allowing you to steam using an ordinary pan you may already have at home. The adapter fits 8, 10, and 12-inch bamboo steamers.

Fish and rice steam together in a tiered steamer.

I often use a 3-tier aluminum steamer. Mine, pictured above, is about 30 years old. Similar models are also available in stainless steel. The bottom pan holds water, the top two tiers are the steaming racks. They are sturdier than the bamboo versions but need more storage space in the kitchen. I often cook different foods in each tier. After steaming, I lift off the top tiers and quickly blanch vegetables in the boiling water in the bottom. You can cook a whole meal in a multi-layer steamer; see this steamed fish dinner that I cook almost once a week.

Look for other steamed dishes in this blog such as Steamed Minced Pork and Eggs, Mom’s Black Bean Pork Spareribs, and Steamed Stuffed Tofu. There are many other steamed dishes in The Hakka Cookbook.

I find the Wok Shop in San Francisco a great source for Asian cooking equipment. Stop by the store if you are San Francisco Chinatown or shop online.