Tag Archives: Hakka migration

Hakka history

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Map of China shows the Hakka Heartland in 1550.
Shaded area indicates the concentration of the Hakka population in 1550.

For most of my life, I never understood what was so special about the Hakka. Popo (my grandmother) insisted, “You should be proud to be Hakka.” Research for my book showed me the answer–the Hakka history. As I learned about their long unique history of migration and how they coped with it, I began to understand how it shaped Popo’s independent, tenacious, hardworking spirit. And how these qualities taught her and other Hakka how to survive where others failed.

Our Hakka History


The ancestors of the Hakka originally lived in Henan, along the Yellow River, in north central China. This area was once considered the cradle of the Han, or Chinese culture. Around the 4th century B.C., invaders forced them out of their home. In a series of five mass migrations, war, flood, famine, and drought, sent the Hakka to the south and other remote regions.

The Hakka found shelter in Jiangxi, southern Fujian, and neighboring Guangdong Province. They lived there in relative isolation for almost 400 years (907 to 1279). During this period of relative seclusion they solidified their language, culture, and identity.

Dangerous bandits in Fujian forced them to move across the border to northern and eastern Guangdong Province. The local Cantonese had settled the fertile parcels of lowland. Only scraps of poor hillside land were left for the new migrants. They worked hard and were able to survive where others had failed. Locals labeled the unwelcome newcomers “Hakka” meaning “guest family.” By the sixteenth century, the Hakka began to call the area centered near Meixian in Guangdong and the Jiaying Prefecture (now Meizhou City) as their homeland.

The Hakka spread throughout Guangdong, central and eastern Sichuan, eastern Guangxi, and Taiwan. Through their hard work, they prospered and some become landlords. The local Punti (mostly Cantonese) resented their success. Fighting broke out resulting in the West River Wars and the Taiping Rebellion. This turmoil sent the Hakka all over the world. Now, their estimated worldwide population is over 75 million.

The Hakka Spirit

The history of the Hakka shaped their character and spirit. Chinese society long treated these homeless migrants with contempt. As a result, the Hakka became experts at pulling up stakes, moving on, and starting over. They established settlements in areas where others failed. Eventually they earned respect for their pioneering successes.

It wasn’t until 1933, that the status of the Hakka changed. For centuries, society persecuted the landless migrants. In 1933, Luo Xianglin’s genealogical work showed the Hakka are descendants of the Han dynasty (206 B.C. to 22 A. D.) the Chinese ethnic majority, the Han. This elevated the Hakka to the same status as those who treated them as lower class.

With a shared history of hardship, Hakka proudly see themselves as strong and independent. History tells them work and persistence will bring success.

Hakka migration to Hawaii and California

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Chinese men with long braids are Cantonese. Men with short hair are Hakka. Photo from Generational Roots: 19th Century Chinese Migration to America. Part 1 Hawaii.

Want to learn about the 19th century Hakka migration to America? View these two webinars presented by Dr. Brian Dillon, professor, archeologist, author, anthropologist, and historian. He has studied Chinese-American history for decades, as did his father, Richard H. Dillon, a noted historian and author. Dr. B. Dillon, who is Irish, doesn’t speak or write Chinese. But he married into a Chinese family in Hawaii. His wife is Hakka. Dillon accompanies his narrative with a highly informative slide show.

Generational Roots: 19th Century Chinese Migration to America -Links to Chinese migration webinars: Part 1 Hawaii: Part 2 California:

Tsung Tsin Hawaii sponsored these presentations. Valuable resources and tips to find your own Chinese roots offer a path to your family history. Each webinar runs about one hour. They are packed with information about the Hakka migration and are totally worth your time.

Photo from Generational Roots: 19th Century Chinese Migration to America. Part 1 Hawaii.

Did you know in the 19th century Chinese migration…

  • Most Chinese immigrants came from the southern Guangdong province.
  • Hawaii welcomed the Chinese immigrants. Most were Hakka. Many settled and married Hawaiian women.
  • Chinese came to California to get rich. They were mostly Cantonese. The host society treated the Chinese badly.
  • California led the way with anti-Chinese sentiments.
  • Author Mark Twain defended the Chinese.
  • Author Jack London stole fish from Chinese fishermen.
  • The Chinese men in America who wore queues (long braids) were Cantonese (Punti) to show honor to the Emperor.
  • Chinese men with short hair (no braids) were Hakka. They were the rebels.
  • The Chinese in California built the railways, dry laid stone walls, and water tunnels.
  • Chinese cooks in California logging camps were considered the best in the business.

Luodai: ancient Hakka town

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luodai lionJust outside of Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan, lies the ancient Hakka town of Luodai. More than 90% of the 23,000 residents are Hakka. Sichuan, a province in southwest China, is home to more than 3 million Hakkas.

ground red chilesAlthough, the government remodeled the town with picturesque Qing-style features to attract tourists, you can find the old village hidden in the back streets. Basins of crushed dried red chiles, mountain mushrooms, and vegetables fill the marketplace. Along the dirt pathways and lanes, small shops carry out their business. A woman delivers disks of coal for cooking.

Guangdong GuildThroughout the newer renovated section, tea houses, gardens, and small shops line stone-paved streets. Several large guild complexes built by Hakkas from different provinces serve as social halls. In my research tour in 2005, we ate at two of these Hakka guilds, the Jiangxi and Guangdong.

The Guangdong Guild was built in 1747 by the Hakkas. The host’s ancestors are from Meizhou, the same area as my own family.

Although the Hakka maintained much of their traditional cuisine, in migration they often adapted to their new homes, adding different ingredients, adjusting to local tastes, and creating new dishes.  In this province, known for it spicy chile-fired cuisine, the Sichuan influences assert themselves immediately in our meals.

steamed fish with green onionsCompare steamed fish served in two different provinces. In Meizhou, in the center of the Hakka heartland in Guangdong province, the fish is steamed with just a bit of soy sauce and green onions (recipe on page 39 in The Hakka Cookbook). The natural flavor of the fish predominates.

steamed fish with chilesIn Luodai in Sichuan province, the fish is steamed under a avalanche of fresh green peppercorns and sliced green chiles. The taste is definitely hot and spicy as many dishes are in Sichuan.

Our Hakka host explains that although the traditional Hakka flavor profile is not spicy, they added the chile pepper to their cooking to match the climate. Not all the dishes on our table were fiery hot; some emphasized natural flavors and balanced the chile-laden dishes. However, the meals in Sichuan were far more spicy than those we ate in Guangdong.

Even in China, we see the effects of migration in a simple steamed fish. As I travel more, I see the effect of migration and environment on the food we eat.

 

Dedicated to the Hakka around the world

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I dedicated this book to Hakka all around the world. That’s why I was so touched to read a post on Maya in the Morning by Maya Leland, a fellow Hakka who received The Hakka Cookbook as a gift.

In Roots uncovered, she writes about our shared history and most importantly she relays her own family story of migration from China to British Guyana to Jamaica. Her daughter-in-law even cooked one of the more exotic dishes in the book, Spiced Goat Stew with Preserved Lime Sauce, a recipe from a Hakka Jamaican who now lives in Toronto.

Reading blogs and reviews like this fulfills one of my goals for writing The Hakka Cookbook. Hopefully the book makes Hakkas as well as the world to be more aware of who we are, our unique history of migration, our strong character, and our food.

Thanks Maya.