Category Archives: Hakka food

Chinese New Year Feast

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Chinese New Year Good Luck signs

Happy Chinese New Year! Celebrate the Lunar New Year with a Chinese New Year Feast. Greet everyone with “Happy New Year” (Xīnnián kuàilè in Mandarin 新年快乐) or “Wishing you happiness and prosperity!” (Khiung Hee Fat Choy in Hakka or Gong Hay Fat Choy in Cantonese 恭禧發財).


In 2026, February 17 marks the start of the Year of the Horse. On the Chinese horoscope, each year is dominated by an animal sign: Rat, ox, tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, goat, monkey rooster, dog, and pig. Each animal has special characteristics. If you were born in the year of 2014, 2002, 1990, 1978, 1966, 1954, and 1942, you are are a horse.

Chinese zodiac horoscope

Some horoscopes describe people born in the year of the horse to be confident, intelligent, responsible, and stubborn. They like to be physically active and mentally challenged. Some forecasts for the horse show this may be a powerful year for growth and transformation. Balance your fire with calmness to make the most of this energy.


A family reunion feast starts the Chinese New Year celebration. Our family meal tends to be a cooperative effort with everyone sharing a dish. I’m scanning The Hakka Cookbook looking for recipes for our feast.


The table is traditionally filled with foods that send auspicious messages to attract wealth, luck, success, unity, longevity. Many foods eaten during the celebration have symbolic meanings. They may resemble or their words sounds like something that is auspicious.

Hakka-Indian Egg Rolls hold curry-spiced filling.
Spicy Egg Rolls resemble gold bars.
Hakka in Thailand inspired Hakka Chef Li to create this mildly spice dish with fresh herbs
Open clams represent new opportunities.
Green vegetables suggest growth in business.
Hakka Chow Mein
Noodles symbolize long life.
Fish Ball soup recipe inspired by Ton Kiang in San Francisco
Round-shaped foods represent unity.


Egg or spring rolls look like gold bars. Consider the Spicy Egg Rolls (page 184) or the Hakka Egg Roll page 170).

Open clams represent new opportunities. Perhaps I might cook Chile-spiced Clams with Basil and Cilantro (page 231).

Green vegetables suggest growth in business. Some options include Chinese Broccoli in Sweet Rice Wine (page 230), Stir-fried Chinese Lettuce and Wine Rice (page 50), Stir-fried Iceberg Lettuce and Garlic (page 27), Stir-Fried Snow Peas and Tofu (page 48), or Stir-fried Spinach and Peanuts (page 56).

Noodles symbolize long life. Choose from Garlic Noodles and Shrimp (page 193), Noodles with Mushroom Pork Sauce (page 104), Soy-glazed Pork and Mushroom Noodles (page 208), or Sweet Soy Chow Mein (page 178).

Round shaped foods represent unity. A Pork and Shrimp Ball Soup (page 213), Spinach and Fish Ball Soup (page 225), or Ginger Soup with Sweet Rice Balls (page 116) can bring the family together.

Symbols of Chinese New Year: red envelopes, tangerines, good luck banners

What will you eat for your Chinese New Year Feast? As long as you share food with family or friends, you start the year with good will and hope. Happy Year of the Horse! May it be full of joy, good health, prosperity, and peace!

Gift for someone with Hakka heritage

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Cover for The Hakka Cookbook

Looking for a holiday gift for someone with Hakka heritage? Consider The Hakka Cookbook, Chinese Soul Food from around the World. Named “Best Chinese Cuisine Cookbook” by the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in 2013, its relevance endures.

Gourmand World Cookbook Awards

It’s a perfect gift for one who wants to learn more about their Hakka history, identity, and cuisine. The book traces their struggles and migration across the world. Hakka from all over the world share their stories and recipes. I wrote the book especially for people like me, Hakka who didn’t know much about the history or people. Writing this book, helped me find my Hakka identity.

Art of Squash and Peas by Alan Lau in The Hakka Cookbook
Ginger-scented Squash, Peas, and Lily Bulbs. Art by Alan Lau

If you’re a Chinese food and history enthusiast, this book leads you to discover a relatively unknown group of Chinese known as Hakka (guest people.) Their unique history of a long migration shaped their strong survival characteristics, culture and cuisine. Even if you are not Hakka, you’ll find many history and food discoveries in the book. Art by my brother, Alan Lau, gracefully flows through the book.

Buy The Hakka Cookbook from the publisher, University of California Press or many places online. To buy a Chinese translation of the book visit the Taiwan publisher SMC Books.

Chinese comfort food, easy, effortless, and satisfying

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Braised Chicken Wings in Bean Sauce from The Hakka Cookbook

Chinese comfort food, easy, effortless, and satisfying, make up the bulk of Hakka cuisine. In this recipe, braise chicken wings with just a few ingredients to produce a comforting dish that will please hungry diners. The secret ingredient is Chinese bean sauce. The dark salty bean sauce imbues the soft, silky chicken flesh and resulting sauce with intense savoriness. A generous measure of freshly ground pepper adds a slight spicy kick. After one taste, you may return to this Chinese comfort food dish over and over.

Chinese Bean Sauce

Secret Ingredient: Bean Sauce

Chinese bean sauce, aka known as Bean Sauce or Ground Bean Sauce is made with ground or whole fermented soybeans. The thick pasty sauce contributes a salty, pronounced fermented bean flavor, similar to soy sauce.

Look for the bean sauce in Asian supermarkets. If you can’t find it, shop for the more available hoisin sauce found in most supermarkets in the Asian sauce section. Omit the sugar when using the sweeter hoisin sauce.

Braised Chicken Wings in Bean Sauce

In a hot 14-inch wok or 5- to 6-quart over high heat pan, add 2 tablespoons salad oil. Add about 2 pounds chicken wing sections. Stir occasionally until wings are lightly browned. Stir in 2 tablespoons minced garlic. Add 2 cups water, 2 tablespoons bean sauce, 1 tablespoon each soy sauce and sugar, and 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Cover and simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the wings are tender when pierced, 35 to 45 minutes. Add a little more water as needed, if the liquid evaporates before the chicken is done.

With a slotted spoon, transfer the wings to a serving dish. Skim fat off pan juices, and if the sauce tastes watery, boil, uncovered, to concentrate flavor and reduce the sauce to about 1 cup. Pour over the wings. Garnish with thinly sliced green onions or cilantro.

For more recipe details, see page 203 of The Hakka Cookbook. Serve with rice and stir-fried greens. Thanks to Fah Liong, my Hakka friend who taught me this easy and satisfying dish. Enjoy!

What is Hakka Food?

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Hakka Stuffed Tofu from Hakka Restaurant
Stuffed Tofu
Hakka salt-baked chicken
Salt-baked Chicken
Stuffed Bitter Melon Soup from The Hakka Cookbook
Stuffed Bitter Melon Soup
kiu ngiuk moi choy
Pork Belly with Preserved Mustard Greens

What is Hakka food? I grew up in California eating Chinese food at home with occasional nights of tacos, spaghetti, and chicken pot pies.  Most of our meals centered around a bowl of rice.  I really didn’t give much thought if the food was Hakka or Chinese, to me it was just comfort food.

It wasn’t until I started researching this book that I tried to define Hakka food. I asked every Hakka I met and got many answers: satisfying, fatty, robust flavors, rustic food of the working man. Preserved vegetables and meats play a prominent part in their diet. Soy sauce, rice wine and their by-products, fermented bean curd, and fermented bean sauces season the foods.

But as I ate Hakka dishes around the world, the definition seemed to encompass a much wider range of foods. Many of the Hakka classics fit the previous definition, but what the Hakka eat today maintains traditional flavors but also adapts to their new adopted homes and a different lifestyle than their ancestors. Fresher ingredients, more seafood, and new seasonings broaden the diet. Innovative Hakka cooks add variety, lighten dishes, and create new recipes.

Some Cantonese might try some of the recipes in this cookbook and say it tastes like what they ate at home. It’s not a coincidence. Some call Hakka food the country cousin of Cantonese cuisine. It makes sense. Both groups lived side-by-side, although not amicably, in southern China for centuries. Abroad, they were often forced to live together. So many dishes bear a similarity. Even at Cantonese restaurants, often a few Hakka dishes appear on the menu.

Compared to Cantonese dishes, I find Hakka food tastes more satisfying, with stronger flavors. Because many Hakka lived inland, seafood was not readily available. Pork stews and braised chicken, often dark with soy sauce, were common. Yet many dishes, especially fresh vegetables were simply cooked, letting natural flavors emerge. Preserved vegetables, meats, and seasonings also played a prominent role in their diet because these foods lasted a long time, an asset for those who migrated often and whose access to fresh ingredients were sometimes limited. Salt and dehydration extended their shelf life and attributed a salty flavor to some of the finished dishes. 

For me, Hakka food is Chinese soul food. It comforts my soul and satisfies my stomach.

Buy The Hakka Cookbook

Taste the Hakka soul in this pork and mustard green stew

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Soy-Simmered Pork and Salted Mustard Greens

Taste traditional Hakka flavors in this easy pork stew. This dish pairs two Hakka staple ingredients, salted mustard greens and pork. They simmer together with a generous dose of garlic and rice wine. Dark, sweet soy sauce gives it a deep inky hue and salty-sweet-sour flavor. The result tastes distinctively Hakka.


Fah Liong, my Hakka mentor, contributed this recipe to the The Hakka Cookbook. Her Indonesian roots show up in her use of kecap manis, an Indonesian sweet soy sauce. The syrupy soy sauce infuses the stew with a dark, glossy, finish and a salty, sweet, taste. The salted mustard greens, popular in Hakka dishes, balance the richness of the pork and the sweetness of the soy sauce. Serve the soy-braised pork with mounds of hot rice.

Soy-Simmered Pork and Salted Mustard Greens


For a more detailed recipe, see page 222 in The Hakka Cookbook. The dish can be made a day ahead made; cool, cover, and chill. Reheat, covered, over low heat, adding a little extra water, as needed.


3 cups salted mustard greens (about 1 1/4 lb.), rinsed and cut in 1 1/2-inch squares
¼ cup vegetable oil
⅓ cup minced garlic
2 pounds boneless pork butt, cut in 1 1/2-inch chunks
2 cups Chinese rice wine (shaoxing) or dry sherry
3 tablespoons kecap manis (Indonesian sweet soy sauce) OR mix 2 tablespoons each dark soy sauce (see notes, following) and packed brown sugar
2 tablespoons sugar, or to taste
2 tablespoons dark soy sauce (or 4 teaspoons light or regular soy sauce plus 2 teaspoons molasses)
Salt

  1. Soak the mustard greens in water at least 1 hour or up to 4 hours, changing water occasionally. Drain and squeeze excess water out of the mustard greens.
  2. Set a 14-inch wok or 5- to 6-quart pan over high heat. When pan is hot, add the oil and garlic. Stir-fry until garlic is lightly browned, about 15 seconds. Add the pork and cook, stirring occasionally, until meat is lightly browned, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the wine, mustard greens, kecap manis, sugar, and dark soy sauce.
  3. Bring the pork mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the pork is tender when pierced, 1 ½ to 2 hours. If liquid evaporates before the meat is tender, add a little water as needed, and continue simmering. With a slotted spoon lift out pork and mustard greens and transfer to a serving dish. Skim off the fat from pan juices and discard. Taste juices and if too watery, boil, uncovered, over high heat until juices are reduced to about 1 cup. Taste and add salt and more sugar, if needed. Pour over pork. Makes 6 to 8 main-dish servings.
    Notes: For a quick substitute for dark soy sauce (aka black soy sauce, double black soy sauce, mushroom soy sauce) use 2 parts light or regular soy sauce plus 1 part molasses

Happy Chinese New Year!

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Snake image for the lunar year of the Snake
Year of the Snake

Happy Chinese New Year! Khiung Hee Fat Choy! 恭禧發財 Gong Hay Fat Choy! On January 29, 2025, we welcome the start of the Lunar New Year of the Snake. Celebrate the Chinese New Year with a feast. Gather family and friends around the table filled with foods that symbolize auspicious messages: wealth, luck, success, unity, growth, and longevity.


As I plan the menu for our family’s new year feast, I look through The Hakka Cookbook for ideas. I like our family meals to be a cooperative effort, sort of an organized potluck plus cooking lesson. It’s easier and more fun to share the cooking duties and hopefully everyone can learn something new.


For my grandchildren, who are now teenagers, I like to include one cooking activity. In the past, we made won tons, dumplings, and pot stickers. This year we may make Stuffed Tofu. It’s a Hakka classic and not too difficult. The Hakka invented stuffed tofu when they could not find wheat flour in their new home in the south to make the dumplings they ate in their former home in northern China.


There are many variations of Stuffed Tofu (釀 豆 腐 Hakka: nyiong tiu fu; Mandarin: niang dou fu). In the basic Hakka version, the filling starts with ground pork. When the Hakka migrated to coastal areas, they might add shrimp or salted fish, or fresh fish paste. The seasonings vary depending on the cook. Common ones include garlic, ginger, green onions, cilantro, soy sauce, dried tangerine peel, and dried mushrooms. This versatile filling can also be used to fill vegetables such as eggplant, chilies, mushrooms, or bitter melons.

The tofu may be cut in different ways. For the simplest way, cut the tofu into thick squares or rectangles. Then dig out a shallow cavity in the center to hold the filling. Or if you’re dexterous, cut the tofu in thick triangles, then carve a slot-like pocket into the long side to cradle the filling (as pictured at left.)


The stuffed tofu can be cooked in different ways: steamed, pan-browned and braised, poached, and deep-fried. Look for different variations: Uncle Henry’s Tofu Triangles (recipe on page 31), Natalie Com Liu’s Tofu Topped with Pork (pictured below, recipe on page 33), Braised Fried Tofu with Pork (page 76), Fah’s Stuffed Tofu Triangles (page 215), and Stuffed Tofu Soup (page 216.)


To add more luck to the meal, we’ll probably add some green vegetables for growth such as the Chinese Broccoli in Sweet Rice Wine (page 230 ), Stir-fried Chinese Lettuce and Wine Rice (page 50), Lettuce with Garlic and Black Beans (pictured below, page 57), or Iceberg Lettuce with Garlic (page 27).


Noodles represent long life. Choose from the dark, umami-rich Noodles with Mushroom Pork Sauce (page 104), the lighter Garlic Noodles and Shrimp (pictured below, page 193), or the dark Sweet Soy Chow Mein (page 178). Fish is a must-have on Chinese New Year table. The fish brings surplus and abundance to the new year. I like the Steamed Fish with Green Onions (page 39) or the Braised Fish in Black Bean Sauce (page 137).

Possibly we may cook the famous Hakka Salt-baked Chicken (page 64) or the easier Salt-Poached Chicken (page 226). Or maybe we’ll buy a Chinese roast duck.


For me, Chinese New Year is about food and family. Khiung Hee Fat Choy 恭禧發財! Happy New Year!!

Buy The Hakka Cookbook

Holiday gift for Hakka

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Looking for the perfect gift for your Hakka family or friend? Consider The Hakka Cookbook. It’s a great primer for those who want to know more about their Hakka history and identity.

Popo, my grandmother, always told me, “You should be proud to be Hakka.” I never understood why. Long after she passed away, I wrote the book to find the answer. This book follows my journey to find my Hakka identity. It explores our unique history of migration and shows how it shaped the Hakka character and cuisine. I traveled around the world and interviewed many Hakka who shared their stories and recipes in this book.

Best Chinese Cuisine Cookbook in the World in 2012

The Gourmand World Cookbook Awards recognized The Hakka Cookbook as Best Chinese Cuisine Cookbook in 2012.

You can order the book from your local bookstore. Or you can find it online at many outlets around the world such as Amazon and Kinokuniya. Click this link to find other sources for different areas. You can also buy the book directly from the publisher University of California Press.

This year a Taiwan publisher translated The Hakka Cookbook into Chinese. You can order the Chinese translation directly from SMC Books.

Buy The Hakka Cookbook

Bitter melon soup, a Hakka classic

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Summer brings bitter melon (foo gwa). We can find them at the Hmong’s stand at our farmers market. Their appearance prompts curious questions. They don’t look much like melons, their shape is more like a slender gourd or a plump cucumber. Their shiny bumpy skin is furrowed with deep wrinkles and their interior is filled with a white pithy mesh of seeds. Like their name implies, they are bitter. Although Hakka and many Asians love their strong numbing bite, it’s an acquired taste for many. Although I love bitter in many forms, I’ve find most times they are simply too bitter for me.


My father loved them so much that when he retired, he grew them in his garden. His recipe for the Hakka classic, stuffed bitter melon soup is on page 24 of The Hakka Cookbook.


My husband also loves bitter melon. Last weekend we bought two bitter melons at the market. I’m making his favorite, stuffed bitter melon soup tonight. I will use all pork for the filling, You can vary the filling to your taste. Many add some minced shrimp or fish to lighten it. I like to season the pork with some minced ginger, garlic, green onions, cilantro, soy sauce, shaoxing wine, salt, and pepper. Add some cornstarch to help bind it together. Slice the gourd crosswise into thick rings and scoop out the seeds. Pack the meat mixture into the bitter melon rings. then slide them into the simmering broth. Simmer the soup until the melon is tender. Tonight, I had some filling leftover so I dropped spoonfuls of the mixture into the broth. I also added some sliced carrots and celery to the soup because I had some in the refrigerator. Success! He ate three bowls.


Feeling adventurous? Give bitter melons a try.

The birth of Chino Latino cuisine

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In a recent article in Taste Cooking, Jess Eng writes about the history and spread of Chino Latino cuisine throughout Latin America. Now with a growing population of Asian-Latino immigrants in the United States, you’ll find chefs who recreate Asian-influenced foods they grew up with, adding their own signature to these dishes. Many came from Peru, Cuba, and Dominican Republic. Their fluid fusion cuisine began with the Chinese immigration to Latin America.

Chinatown in Lima, Peru

In 2007, I first encountered this blend of Chinese and Latin cuisines in Lima, Peru. I was there to research the Hakka diaspora for The Hakka Cookbook. Lima boasted the largest Chinatown in South America. A large concentration of Hakka once lived there. Lima’s Chinatown looked much like others throughout the world with it’s mix of markets, restaurants, temples, and gift shops. Shops sold Asian greens and vegetables stacked high, shiny mahogany-hued roasted ducks hanging from hooks, and fresh whole fish glistening with freshness. Yet a Latin vibe pulsated through the streets. Spanish signs and a mix of Spanish phrases with Chinese echoed a Latin American environment. A fusion of Chinese and Hispanic features showed in the faces of many vendors and customers.

Chinese change the Peruvian Diet


Professor Jorge Salazar (now deceased) explained how the Chinese changed the Peruvian diet. The first Chinese came as early as the 16th century, but the largest influx started in 1849, when over one hundred thousand Chinese migrants replaced the black workers. Most came from Canton (now Guangdong). Many were Hakka. They worked as contract laborers on sugar plantations, the railroad, and guano mines. Although they worked under exploitative contracts, the Chinese workers demanded rice, essential to their diet. This forced landowners to import and grow rice, a new food for this country. The Chinese also introduced Chinese vegetables and the wok with its stir-fry technique.


After surviving their contacts, the Chinese set up their own businesses. Some started restaurants that served traditional Chinese dishes. Others looking for a way to grow the business, created dishes that mixed local ingredients with Chinese cooking techniques and seasonings. This merger produced lomo saltado, a popular dish of stir-fried beef strips with French fries, tomatoes, and onions. Served with rice, this dish epitomizes a Chino Latino fusion dish with Chinese stir-fry technique and Chinese soy sauce with Peruvian potatoes, tomatoes, and peppers. These restaurants catered to the Peruvian tastes and were called chifas. Peruvians grew to love these brighter, colorful, sweeter dishes and the spread of chifas grew.


Now as these Chino Latino immigrants explore and expand on their cuisine in the United States, we can taste the strong impact of the Chinese immigrants in their homeland long ago. The influence of the Chinese immigration continues to spread around the world.

Chinese restaurants around the world

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Have you noticed that everywhere you go around the world, you will find a Chinese restaurant? Cheuk Kwan, a Canadian film-maker and now author, explores this global phenomenon in his new book, Have you Eaten Yet? The book follows Kwan’s exploration of family-run Chinese restaurants from the Arctic to South Africa, from Trinidad to India. The restaurants symbolize the Chinese migration. Kwan tells the stories of these immigrants and how they adapted to their new homes while maintaining their Chinese culture.


Last weekend, Kwan was in the Bay Area to promote his new book. The best way to discuss a book about Chinese restaurants is over a good Chinese meal. So we shared lunch at the Hakka Restaurant in San Francisco. The book records his journey he took over two decades ago when he produced the documentary series Chinese Restaurants. He goes behind the scenes and reveals the feelings, emotions, and soul of these Chinese migrants.

I first met Kwan, shortly after his film series was released in 2004. My daughter had seen one of his episodes at a film festival and suggested I see his series for my book research. I ordered his 15 episode DVD set. Many of his restaurateurs were Hakka, like my father, immigrants looking for a way to make a living.

I contacted Kwan and asked him about his Hakka chefs. He suggested we meet because he would be in the Bay Area for a film festival next week. Our projects shared a similar focus on the global Chinese diaspora.


I was still in the early days of research for my Hakka cookbook. Kwan told me I needed to go to Toronto. He said he could set me up with a Hakka friend who could gather many contacts for me. Within a few weeks, I was in Scarborough, a suburb of Toronto, sharing a meal with a dozen new Hakka friends. They came from all over the world. I interviewed them, asking about their stories and their food. Many of their stories and recipes found their way into The Hakka Cookbook. I’m so grateful to have met Cheuk Kwan.


I asked him about his documentary series, Chinese Restaurants. He said he has posted the episodes on YouTube so everyone can see it. Read “Have you eaten yet?” then view his series to see their faces. It’s an insightful view of the Chinese diaspora. Click this link to see.

The next day at a book signing event at the Oakland Asian Cultural Center, Kwan shared some of his experiences writing the book. Martin Yan also interviewed him about the Chinese diaspora. Read the book and enjoy the historical and revealing journey of Chinese migrants who dared to open a restaurant across the world.