Chinese New Year feast

Happy Chinese New Year!

Plan your menu for the symbol-laden Chinese New Year feast now. The lunar new year is fast approaching.

In 2020, January 25 marks the beginning of the Chinese year 4717. The celebration marks a time of renewal, marked by food, traditions, and festivities. On the Chinese horoscope, each year is dominated by an animal sign: Rat, ox, tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, goat, monkey rooster, dog, and pig. Each animal has special characteristics. This is the year of the rat.

A family reunion feast highlights the New Year celebration. The table is traditionally filled with foods that send auspicious messages to attract wealth, luck, success, unity, longevity.
As I plan the menu for our family’s new year feast, I’m looking through The Hakka Cookbook for ideas. I like our meals to be a cooperative effort, sort of an organized potluck plus cooking lesson. It’s easier to share cooking duties and hopefully everyone can learn something new.

For my grandchildren, I try to include one cooking activity. In the past, we have made wontons, dumplings, and pot stickers. This year we may make Stuffed Tofu (pages 31, 33). The Hakka invented stuffed tofu when they could not find wheat flour in their new home in the south to make the dumplings they ate in their former home in northern China. Instead of putting the meat filling in a wheat flour wrapper, they stuffed the filling into chunks of tofu.

Noodles with Mushroom Pork Sauce from The Hakka Cookbook

Noodles represent long life. I like the dark, umami-rich flavor of Noodles with Mushroom Pork Sauce (page 104). Or perhaps we’ll cook Garlic Noodles and Shrimp (page 193), sort of a Hakka-style Chow Mein.

Fish is a must-have on Chinese New Year table. The fish brings surplus and abundance to the new year. I like Steamed Fish with Green Onions (page 39). Steaming keeps the delicate flesh moist and is so easy.

A green vegetable represents growth in business. I love the simplicity of the stir-fried Chinese Broccoli in Sweet Rice Wine (page 230).

Possibly we may cook the famous Hakka Salt-baked Chicken (page 64) or some of the easier variations or maybe we’ll buy a Chinese roast duck. What’s on your menu?

Hakka Salt-Baked Chicken from The Hakka Cookbook

For me, Chinese New Year is about food and family. Wishing you a Happy and Prosperous New Year! ????! Khiung Hee Fat Choy! Gong Hay Fat Choy!

Gift for the Chinese cook

Best Chinese Cuisine Cookbook of the World 2012 -Gourmand World Cookbook Awards

Looking for a gift for a Hakka relative or friend eager to learn more about their Hakka history? Is there a cook on your holiday gift list who is interested in Chinese history and cuisine?  Give them The Hakka Cookbook, Chinese Soul Food from around the World. The book was recognized as the Best Chinese Cookbook in the World in 2012 by the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.

Through recipes and stories told by Hakka from all over the world, discover the unique Hakka history, culture, and cuisine. Find 140 recipes, including Hakka classics such as stuffed tofu, lei cha, and salt-baked chicken as well as easy Chinese comfort food. The beginner cook will find sections on cooking techniques, equipment, and ingredients. Paintings created by artist Alan Lau gracefully illustrates the book.

Check this link for sources on where to buy The Hakka Cookbook. It is widely available online. Some of the major sellers are Amazon.com, Books Kinokuniya, and University of California Press. Or ask your local book store to order The Hakka Cookbook for you.

Access The Hakka Cookbook online

Want The Hakka Cookbook but simply have no shelf space for more books? Consider buying the ebook version from ucpress.com or kindle version from amazon.com or many other online vendors.

Or if you simply want to access The Hakka Cookbook online plus a curated collection of many more cookbooks, consider getting a subscription to ckbk.com On this digital subscription service for cooks, you have access to the complete content of a curated collection of classic cookbooks. Digital access allows you to easily and quickly search for recipes.

You can find recipes for World Cuisines, Baking, Vegan and Vegetarian, Health and Fitness. I especially like the Chinese classics from esteemed authors such as Irene Kuo, Eileen Yin-Fei Lo, and Ken Hom. Other popular authors include Alice Waters, Nigella Lawson, and many more. Build a digital library of your personal favorite recipes and cookbook collections. You can even print out the recipes.

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Disclosure:
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Chinese feast at Zhong Shan Restaurant

Last week, we dined again at Chef Jin Hua Li’s new business, Zhong Shan Restaurant on Taraval Street in San Francisco. Like his previous restaurant, he features Hakka cuisine. At our last meal at Zhong Shan, we tried many of the new dishes. At this feast we couldn’t resist ordering some of our old favorites from his Hakka Restaurant that he previously owned. Luckily, these dishes appear on the Zhong Shan menu, too.


We ordered the Steamed Pork Stomach with Chicken Soup and the Stuffed Duck in Lotus Leaf. Both of these labor intensive dishes require advance notice and are well worth planning ahead.


For the soup, he stuffs a pork stomach with a whole chicken filled with chicken feet, white peppercorns, and dried longans. The football-shaped stomach steams for 5 to 6 hours to create a complex broth imbued with the chicken essence, a slight peppery spiciness, and a faint sweetness. The server brought the stomach and broth in a huge white tureen. She lifted out the stomach, cut it open with scissors, and cut the stomach and chicken into smaller pieces. The golden clear broth was ladled into small bowls to sip. Bite-sized pieces of chicken and stomach were offered to eat with a dip of soy sauce.


In the Stuffed Duck in Lotus Leaf, glutinous rice laced with Chinese delicacies such as sausage, chestnuts, and dates fills a whole duck. The duck is browned, then wrapped in lotus leaves and steamed until the duck almost falls apart with succulent tenderness.


We tried a couple of new dishes. Braised Fried Tofu and Fish Fillet in Clay Pot will join my list of favorites. The delicately sauced tofu and fish simply melted in our mouths.
We also liked the simple stir-fry of Minced Pork and String Beans with Olive. What was the olive? The olive looked like small bits of dark leaves. Checking on the internet I find that the Chinese olive vegetable is a dark condiment of cooked Chinese mustard greens, minced green olives, spices, soy, and oil. Use it as a seasoning to add deep earthy, savory flavor.

Braised Spareribs

Chef Li sent us a new offering on his menu, Braised Spareribs. Not sure what the official name is, but we found the moist, tender, pork ribs cloaked in a dark, savory sauce to be a winner.

Must-have favorites rounded out our menu. Chef Li makes the best Chinese Bacon with Preserved Green. I love the House Special Basil Eggplant with its soft, seductive silkiness. The Hong Kong Spicy Clams are deep-fried to crust the exterior, then stir-fried with chiles and garlic. The bright green Sautéed Garlic Pea Sprouts brought a fresh note and balance to our feast. We all agreed, it was an incredible meal at a bargain price!

  • Zhong Shan Restaurant
  • Hakka Cuisine
  • 2237 Taraval Street (between 32nd and 33rd Avenues)
  • San Francisco, CA 94116
  • (415) 592 8938
Zhong Shan Restaurant Exterior


Easy Hakka recipes for everyday

My daughters are like many of you-–looking for recipes for a healthy dinner on a hectic schedule. They lead busy lives with small children who have active social calendars that rival their parents. Although my girls like to cook, their time is limited. I love it when they tell me they turn to The Hakka Cookbook for inspiration.

Often they look for a recipe they can use with food they have on hand. Sometimes they shop for a favorite recipe that has become a quick go-to weeknight dish such as Stir-fried Chinese Broccoli and Chicken (page 210).

Here are some of the quick and easy recipes that they have used from The Hakka Cookbook in the last few weeks. As you can see, they sometimes adapt the recipe to their family’s taste and the ingredients they have at the moment. You can do the same.

Stir-fried Long Beans with Pork with cook’s additional of cherry tomatoes (page 21)
Stir-fried Chicken and Cucumbers from The Hakka Cookbook
Garlic-Chile Eggplant Sticks (page 56)
Stir-fried Chicken and Cucumbers with cook’s substitution of cherry tomatoes for red chile slices (page 202)

Don’t let time stop you from eating well.

How to cook Asian eggplant

When I was young, I didn’t appreciate the wonders of eggplant. My mother grew big pear-shaped eggplants in the garden. She simply boiled them and I found them bland and boring. As an adult I discovered slender Asian eggplants. I found the eggplant’s inherent mild flavor could be an asset. When cooked, eggplants act like sponges soaking up a myriad of flavors to take on a new dimension. Their soft texture becomes creamy and lush. 

Asian eggplant

In northern California, eggplants reach maturity in late summer and early fall. They grow firm and plump with shiny purple skin. Slender Asian varieties such as the lighter colored Chinese eggplant and the dark purplish-black Japanese eggplant contains less seeds for a creamier texture. When stir-fried or braised, they can hold their shape better , especially when attached to the skin, rather then collapse into a shapeless mass as pear-shaped varieties tend to do.

Cook Asian eggplants in braised dishes such as Braised Eggplant, Pork, and Mushrooms (recipe on page 93 of The Hakka Cookbook.) You can view a cooking video preview of the recipe on grokker.com 

Restaurants often deep fry eggplant because it saves time. Then they stir-fry the fried eggplant quickly with seasonings. For the home cook, braising is a healthier, less oily, and easier technique to achieve a soft succulent texture and deep flavor found in many eggplant dishes served in restaurants. In braising, stir-fry the eggplant pieces briefly to coat with a little oil, then add liquid and seasonings. Cover and cook over low heat until the eggplant turns tender and soaks up the flavorful liquid. The texture may not be quite as lush and oily as the fried version but it’s far less messy, less greasy, and easier for the home cook.

New Hakka Restaurant in San Francisco

Welcome a new Hakka restaurant to San Francisco. Zhong Shan Restaurant recently opened in the Sunset district. If you have eaten at the Hakka Restaurant on Cabrillo and 45th Avenue, you’ll find this restaurant familiar because that chef/owner has taken over this restaurant.

In 2011 I had interviewed Chef Jin Hua Li, chef/owner of the Hakka Restaurant and featured some of his recipes in The Hakka Cookbook. Since my introduction to the restaurant, we feasted on many wonderful Hakka dishes at his restaurant on Cabrillo and 45th Avenue.

A few months ago, we dined with a group of friends at the Hakka Restaurant and met two young waiters who told us their father was the new owner and chef. We were surprised because the food tasted very similar to our past meals at this restaurant under Chef Li. The sons told us that Chef Li had sold this restaurant to their father and opened a new restaurant on Taraval.

Menu at Zhong Shan Restaurant

House specials on Zhong Shan Restaurant menu

New dishes freshen the menu. The number of House Specialties have almost doubled.

Last weekend, we tried Chef Li’s new restaurant Zhong Shan. Happily, the food and menu are similar to his previous restaurant. Our old Hakka favorites were still there—Chinese Bacon with Preserved Green, House Special Pan Fried Stuffed Tofu, and Pumpkin Strips with Salted Egg. New dishes freshen the menu. The number of House Specialties have almost doubled.

Our friend, Paul, who had eaten at both the old and new restaurants, ordered the meal. In addition to our old favorites we sampled some new dishes. Pork Stomach with Chicken pleasantly surprised us. Strips of chewy-crunchy pork stomach tumbled over chunks of moist salt-baked chicken. Pungent, burning wasabi electrified the flavor. A fine mince of black truffles added a subtle earthy aroma to the egg enriched custard-like Japanese Tofu with Baby Mushrooms. Salt and Pepper Pork Neck offered a stir-fry of flavorful, chewy pork neck strips with crunchy green beans. Tiger Prawns with Soy Sauce brought big plump prawns, butterflied in their shells, and lightly seasoned with soy sauce. They were finger-licking good. Spicy Squid with Black Pepper Sauce featured scored squid pieces stir-fried with green and red pepper chunks.

Paul also ordered a couple of dishes not on the menu. Oysters and Eggs brought moist oysters gently cooked with beaten eggs for a simple comforting dish, not laden with oil. Chinese Broccoli (gai lon) with Salted Fish is a variation of their Sautéed Chinese Broccoli, however, this version is lightly seasoned with a smidgen of good quality salted fish. It did not taste fishy or strong. Sticky Rice in Lotus Leaf and House Special Fried Rice Noodles balanced our meal.

Zhong Shan Restaurant contact information

The new restaurant appears a bit smaller with no upstairs dining room. The decor looks fresh and new. Judging by the full noisy dining room, Zhong Shan Restaurant already scores as a neighborhood favorite.

Zhong Shan Restaurant contact information

Zhong Shan Restaurant

2237 Taraval Street (Between 32nd & 33rd Avenue)

San Francisco, CA 94116

415. 592. 8938

Hakka cooking lessons on Netflix

Recently, I stumbled across a Malaysian series, The Missing Menu on Netflix. This emotional drama features a Hakka widow who tries to bring her family together with her delicious food. Through cooking certain dishes she hopes to teach her children how to live life.

In each episode, she showcases two dishes, usually Hakka or Hokkien (her husband was Hokkien). At the end of each segment, a younger version of this Hakka chef demonstrates how to cook the featured dishes. Learn how to prepare Salt-baked Chicken, Pork Patty, Vinegar Pork Trotters, Ginger Duck, Pork Belly and Taro, and many more. She shares bits of Hakka history as she cooks. Check out The Missing Menu. In Chinese with English subtitles.

Easy, quick Hakka recipes for the family

Stir-fry seasoned ground pork with chunks of tofu and season with soy sauce for quick kid-friendly meal.

On my Facebook page I received a request for easy, fast, family friendly Hakka recipes from someone who owned The Hakka Cookbook. She had children and didn’t have time to find the easiest recipes. Over the years, I have pointed out a number of quick choices in this blog. Here’s one of the most kid-friendly meals that will not tax the most stressed cook.


Stir-fried Tofu and Pork Hash (page 123 in The Hakka Cookbook) takes the flavors of the Hakka classic, Stuffed Tofu (nyiong tiu fu in Hakka), and deconstructs the elements into a quick and easy stir-fry worthy of a weeknight family dinner. It’s so easy you almost don’t need a recipe. Just season some ground pork like you would when making stuffed tofu. Drain and crumble tofu into big chunks. Stir-fry the meat until browned and crumbly, add tofu, and soy sauce to taste. Cook until hot. Garnish with sliced green onions.

Stir-fried Iceberg lettuce and garlic
Stir-fry whole garlic cloves until golden, then add iceberg lettuce pieces and stir-fry just until slightly wilted.


Serve with Stir-fried Iceberg Lettuce and Garlic (page 27) or Chinese Broccoli with Sweet Rice Wine (page 230), or your favorite stir-fried greens. Add hot cooked rice and you have a quick, satisfying, and nutritious dinner for 3 or 4. The mild flavors will please young diners but are savory enough to satisfy adult tastes.

Hakka Food in Australia

Hakka migrated all over the world. While on a recent tour through Australia, I looked for a Hakka restaurant and found Wei Long, recommended by the Facebook group Hakka Australia. I was told the owners, Austen Wang and Kerry Yan, were Moiyan-born Hakka. Six years ago they immigrated to Australia. When they could not find Hakka food like they ate in Meizhou, they started this Hakka restaurant in Sydney.

Luckily, Wei Long was walking distance from our hotel. A few people from our tour group joined us for an impromptu dinner. There were many choices on their multi-page dinner menu. Because our small group had diverse tastes and some dietary restrictions, each person chose one dish to share. Here are a few dishes we tried. There are many more choices.

Hakka-style clams on a bed of pan-fried noodle coils


Hakka-style clams (not sure of how it was listed on the menu) brought stir-fried clams, flecked with a few red chile slices, in a savory sauce over a bed of pan-fried rice noodle coils. The noodles soaked up the sauce, yet maintained a slight crisp edge from panfrying.

A slow-cooked Stewed Meat Soup with Red Rice arrived in a small covered clay container. Red yeast rice, often used to color rice wine, imbued the soup with chunks of minced beef with a rusty red hue. It was hot, satisfying, and comforting. A simple stir-fry of prawns and cashews pleased all tastes.

Hakka Salt-buried Chicken at Wei Long


The moist, tender Salt-Buried Chicken was drizzled with a savory sauce that tasted of the musty camphor flavor of sand ginger (sha jiang).


My husband loves Sweet and Sour Pork so we tried Hakka-style Sweet and Sour Pork. Not sure what made it Hakka but it tasted lighter, fresher, and less cloying sweet than most versions.

If you’re in Sydney, Australia and want to try Hakka cuisine, visit Wei Long in the Central Business District.

Wei Long
Shop 330
289-295 Sussex St
Sydney New South Wales 2000
Australia
Phone number +61 2 9283 3570

Wei Long Hakka Cuisine lunch menu