Linda Lau Anusasananan is the author of The Hakka Cookbook: Chinese Soul Food Around the World. After more than three decades writing about food for Sunset Magazine, she traced the history and food trail of her own people, the Hakka, Chinese nomadic pioneers who settled throughout the world. Her cookbook shares her journey with stories and recipes from Hakka from California to Peru.
Looking for the perfect gift for your Hakka family or friend? Consider The Hakka Cookbook. It’s a great primer for those who want to know more about their Hakka history and identity.
Popo, my grandmother, always told me, “You should be proud to be Hakka.” I never understood why. Long after she passed away, I wrote the book to find the answer. This book follows my journey to find my Hakka identity. It explores our unique history of migration and shows how it shaped the Hakka character and cuisine. I traveled around the world and interviewed many Hakka who shared their stories and recipes in this book.
Best Chinese Cuisine Cookbook in the World in 2012
You can order the book from your local bookstore. Or you can find it online at many outlets around the world such as Amazon and Kinokuniya. Click this link to find other sources for different areas. You can also buy the book directly from the publisher University of California Press.
Summer brings bitter melon (foo gwa). We can find them at the Hmong’s stand at our farmers market. Their appearance prompts curious questions. They don’t look much like melons, their shape is more like a slender gourd or a plump cucumber. Their shiny bumpy skin is furrowed with deep wrinkles and their interior is filled with a white pithy mesh of seeds. Like their name implies, they are bitter. Although Hakka and many Asians love their strong numbing bite, it’s an acquired taste for many. Although I love bitter in many forms, I’ve find most times they are simply too bitter for me.
My father loved them so much that when he retired, he grew them in his garden. His recipe for the Hakka classic, stuffed bitter melon soup is on page 24 of The Hakka Cookbook.
My husband also loves bitter melon. Last weekend we bought two bitter melons at the market. I’m making his favorite, stuffed bitter melon soup tonight. I will use all pork for the filling, You can vary the filling to your taste. Many add some minced shrimp or fish to lighten it. I like to season the pork with some minced ginger, garlic, green onions, cilantro, soy sauce, shaoxing wine, salt, and pepper. Add some cornstarch to help bind it together. Slice the gourd crosswise into thick rings and scoop out the seeds. Pack the meat mixture into the bitter melon rings. then slide them into the simmering broth. Simmer the soup until the melon is tender. Tonight, I had some filling leftover so I dropped spoonfuls of the mixture into the broth. I also added some sliced carrots and celery to the soup because I had some in the refrigerator. Success! He ate three bowls.
Recently, I found out that I wasn’t getting messages sent to The Hakka Cookbook. I think I have fixed the issue. So if you tried to contact The Hakka Cookbook recently and did not get an answer, please try again.
I’ve also made some other changes, moving this website and my domain to a new host. So the website may have been in transit and not working properly. If you had any problems, please try again or let me know.
I’m so excited ! The Hakka Cookbook, Chinese Soul Food from around the World is now available in Chinese. This Chinese translation greatly expands the audience for the book. If you’re interested in ordering this Chinese translation of The Hakka Cookbook, it is available from Taiwan publisher SMC Books. They also publish and sell other books on Hakka studies.
The Hakka Cookbook was originally published in 2012 by the University of California Press. I had long hoped that the book would be translated to Chinese. Finally, a couple of years ago, SMC Books in Taiwan purchased the translation rights to my cookbook. Last week I received a press release announcing the publication of the Chinese translation of The Hakka Cookbook in Taiwan. Another new book about Hakka food research around the world was also released at the same time.
In a recent article in Taste Cooking, Jess Eng writes about the history and spread of Chino Latino cuisine throughout Latin America. Now with a growing population of Asian-Latino immigrants in the United States, you’ll find chefs who recreate Asian-influenced foods they grew up with, adding their own signature to these dishes. Many came from Peru, Cuba, and Dominican Republic. Their fluid fusion cuisine began with the Chinese immigration to Latin America.
Chinatown in Lima, Peru
In 2007, I first encountered this blend of Chinese and Latin cuisines in Lima, Peru. I was there to research the Hakka diaspora for The Hakka Cookbook. Lima boasted the largest Chinatown in South America. A large concentration of Hakka once lived there. Lima’s Chinatown looked much like others throughout the world with it’s mix of markets, restaurants, temples, and gift shops. Shops sold Asian greens and vegetables stacked high, shiny mahogany-hued roasted ducks hanging from hooks, and fresh whole fish glistening with freshness. Yet a Latin vibe pulsated through the streets. Spanish signs and a mix of Spanish phrases with Chinese echoed a Latin American environment. A fusion of Chinese and Hispanic features showed in the faces of many vendors and customers.
Chinese change the Peruvian Diet
Professor Jorge Salazar (now deceased) explained how the Chinese changed the Peruvian diet. The first Chinese came as early as the 16th century, but the largest influx started in 1849, when over one hundred thousand Chinese migrants replaced the black workers. Most came from Canton (now Guangdong). Many were Hakka. They worked as contract laborers on sugar plantations, the railroad, and guano mines. Although they worked under exploitative contracts, the Chinese workers demanded rice, essential to their diet. This forced landowners to import and grow rice, a new food for this country. The Chinese also introduced Chinese vegetables and the wok with its stir-fry technique.
After surviving their contacts, the Chinese set up their own businesses. Some started restaurants that served traditional Chinese dishes. Others looking for a way to grow the business, created dishes that mixed local ingredients with Chinese cooking techniques and seasonings. This merger produced lomo saltado, a popular dish of stir-fried beef strips with French fries, tomatoes, and onions. Served with rice, this dish epitomizes a Chino Latino fusion dish with Chinese stir-fry technique and Chinese soy sauce with Peruvian potatoes, tomatoes, and peppers. These restaurants catered to the Peruvian tastes and were called chifas. Peruvians grew to love these brighter, colorful, sweeter dishes and the spread of chifas grew.
Now as these Chino Latino immigrants explore and expand on their cuisine in the United States, we can taste the strong impact of the Chinese immigrants in their homeland long ago. The influence of the Chinese immigration continues to spread around the world.
Happy Chinese New Year! Khiung Hee Fat Choy! In 2024, the Year of the Dragon begins on February 10. Welcome in the lunar new year with a family feast.
Chinese New Year is a time of renewal, a time for fresh starts. To ensure a promising outcome, feature symbolic foods with auspicious messages such as wealth, longevity, luck, and prosperity on your holiday table. Add family favorites to supplement your feast.
I like to involve everyone in the menu planning and preparation. It’s a big meal for one person to cook. So I invite people to contribute a favorite dish. I often look at The Hakka Cookbook for ideas. I may make the Hakka Egg Roll (page 170) which sort of resemble gold bars.
Wrap a thin egg crepe around a pork filling jelly roll style to make Hakka Egg Roll
Someone will bring noodles for long life. Perhaps the Garlic Noodles with Shrimp (page 193) which is similar to lo mein or chow mein. Or the dark Sweet Soy Chow Mein (page 178). Another option might be the savory Noodles with Mushroom Pork Sauce (page 104).
Hakka Noodles with Pork and Mushroom Sauce
Green symbolizes growth in business. Perhaps the simple Chinese Broccoli in Sweet Rice Wine (page 230), Stir-Fried Chinese Lettuce and Wine Rice (page 50), or Stir-Fried Water Spinach and Charred Red Chiles (page 71). A colorful combo would be the Ginger-Scented Squash, Peas, and Lily Bulbs (page 52). Perhaps the green pea pods might symbolize the growth of green dollars and the squash could represent gold coins.
Fish brings abundance to the new year. We often cook Steamed Fish with Green Onions (page 39). Although the Braised Fish in Black Bean Sauce (page 137) might be a delicious alternative this year.
We often supplement with a Chinese roast duck. Or we may make the Hakka Salt-Baked Chicken (page 64) or the simpler Salt-Poached Chicken (page 226).
May your year be filled with joy, prosperity, and peace. Happy New Year! ! Khiung Hee Fat Choy!
Lately, I’ve been meeting friends who tell me they are trying to learn more about their family history. They want to explore their Chinese roots.
I had the same thoughts when I was in my late 50s. At that time, I had just left a long career at Sunset Magazine and now had the time to explore my family history and Hakka identity. This exploration led to the publication of The Hakka Cookbook.My research started with my Hakka family history. It grew to encompass the unique history and story of the greater Hakka migration. Here I share a few pointers I learned along the way as I looked for my family history.
Tips for searching for your Chinese family history
Identify people in old family photos. Record their names in Chinese characters as well as other English names they may have used. Find out how they are related to you.
Interview your family elders now. Record or video their interviews. I wish I had begun my research earlier when my family elders were still alive. It’s much easier to get the information first hand.
Ask your elders to identify people in old family photos and their relation to you. Have them write their names in Chinese characters as well as other English names they may have used after migration. Try to date the photos and include where the photo was taken.
Ask family members to share their stories about their birthplace, their migration, and their new home. What were their parent’s names? Did they have any siblings? If they migrated from China, ask for the village name. Get Chinese characters for all names. Also record any English names.
Can they teach you how to cook favorite family dishes? Many elders do not have written recipes, but if you can cook alongside and record the process you will learn a lot. Video their cooking lesson, so you can capture the process and approximate amounts of ingredients. In the video you can ask questions about the ingredients, the technique, how do they know when it is done, what it should taste and look like.
Collect documents. Official documents–birth marriage, citizenship, and death certificates, military discharge papers, school graduation certificates–all can help map a person’s life.
If your relatives immigrated through San Francisco check out the National Archives at San Francisco. They found the Angel Island interviews of my grandparents and documents certifying that my grandfather was a merchant.
Ask your family to share stories about their life and special memories. What was life like after they immigrated to a new home? How did your parents meet? How did they celebrate Chinese New Year? What was their favorite hobby or passion? Who was their best friend? Was there a key person who changed their life?
If you’re Hakka and interested in learning more about your Hakka history, consider reading The Hakka Cookbook, Chinese Soul Food from around the World. It’s more than a cookbook. It includes the history and migration of the Hakka people. Read the stories from Hakka from India, Canada, Peru, Trinidad, Jamaica, Mauritius and more. You can ask your local bookstore to order from you or buy it online.
Braised Mountain Mushrooms at Guangdong Guild in Luodai
In October 2005, I spent a day in Luodai, a picturesque Hakka suburb of Chengdu, capital of the Sichuan province. I was there collecting information and recipes for my Hakka cookbook. This town houses many guilds from different provinces in China. The guilds function as social halls with restaurants, tea houses, and meeting rooms. Donations from Hakka from these provinces built these guilds. We eat two Hakka banquets, one at the Jiangxi Guild, and a second one at the Guangdong Guild.
History of the Guangdong Guild in Luodai
One ingredient that appeared in several dishes in both banquets were mushrooms. Mushrooms grow in the mountains nearby. We saw many mushrooms for sale in town. One dish that was served at both banquets was braised mushrooms. It was a relatively straightforward dish that emphasized the pure, earthy mushroom essence. The mushrooms were simply braised in broth, with garlic, ginger, and leek. It’s an easy dish for the home cook. This is a description on how to make the dish. For a more detailed recipe, see The Hakka Cookbook, page 70.
Braised Mountain Mushrooms
Clean about 12 ounces fresh mushrooms (use one or several types). Discard stems from shiitake. Slice the mushrooms about 1/2-inch thick. If pieces are large, cut mushroom slices in 2- 3-inch lengths. Clean1 leek or 2 or 3 green onions, and thinly slice. Cut 2 or 3 large garlic cloves and a1-inch piece of fresh ginger into thin slices.
In a large wok or frying pan over medium-high heat, add 2 tablespoons vegetable oil. Add leek, garlic, and ginger and stir-fry until leek is limp, about 30 seconds, then add mushrooms. Stir-fry until mushrooms are lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add 1 cup chicken or vegetable broth, 2 tablespoons Chinese rice wine (shaoxing) or dry sherry, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon ground white pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer, stirring often until mushrooms are limp, 2 to 3 minutes. Mix 2 tablespoons water with 1 tablespoon cornstarch and add to pan. Stir until the sauce boils. Transfer to serving dish. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
The Hakka Cookbook was published in the fall of 2012. More than 10 years later, the book still lives on. A few months ago, Larry Chin from Vancouver, BC contacted me about selling The Hakka Cookbook on his website Chinatown Wonders. His online site promotes Vancouver’s Chinatown through the creations of local artists and creators. His mission is to build and strengthen cultural connections to Chinatown. On Chinatown Wonders, find videos about the history and culture of Vancouver’s Chinatown. Also shop for books, T-shirts and hoodies, cards, cups, and art prints–all created by Asians.
A few months ago, we met Larry and his family when they were visiting San Francisco. Over lunch at the Hakka Restaurant, Larry told me as a Hakka from Malaysia, he was so excited to discover the The Hakka Cookbook. He loved how the book captured the Hakka history and food culture and wanted to share it with the world.
Last week he called to share a story about an memorable encounter he had with a customer. At a recent pop-up event, he displayed a copy of The Hakka Cookbook. A young woman saw The Hakka Cookbook and instantly zeroed in and claimed the book as hers. She told him she was a Hakka from Trinidad. Larry opened the book and showed her the map and how the Hakka migrated throughout the world. They looked up Trinidad, her home country. To their surprise, they found her uncle, Winston H. Chang Jr., on page 161. I had interviewed the “self-proclaimed Hakkaologist” more than a decade ago in Toronto. He graciously shared his story and several recipes with me.
I’m so pleased that she found The Hakka Cookbook. I wrote the book especially for people like her–Hakka who wanted to know more about their history and culinary heritage.
This documentary tells the multi-faceted story about my brother, Alan Lau. Alan created the art for The Hakka Cookbook. His art for the book was a mere sketch of his artistic talent as seen in this film. Alan is an artist, poet, produce worker, community leader, and arts editor.
Paintings by Alan Lau for The Hakka Cookbook. Some are in the film, alan@work
The film, alan@work was recently shown at the Seattle International Film Festival. If you missed the theater showings, you can stream it for a short time until the festival ends May 28, 2023. You can buy streaming tickets here.
Alan worked as a produce worker at Uwajimaya in Seattle for many years. The produce inspired him to create art and poems that resulted in the book blues and greens: a produce worker’s journal. The publisher University of Hawaii Press is selling the remaining books at a bargain price of $1. at this site.
